Keyless ignition ?

quote:

Originally posted by INZOWHO:
Pantera Electronics makes a superb push button start module, but it still requires you to insert and turn the key. I want to avoid that if possible.
Doug M

Doug, you sure are gettin' lazy...

Keep in mind that removing the steering lock makes the car easier to push places if it's stolen. I think that the key benefit of Jon's system is that it off-loads the start-up loads away from the ignition switch. That was the reason I bought it. Now if I could just get off my lazy ass and install it...

Mark

I have to agree with Mark. The Pantera still attracts entirely too much attention in public.

P-E push button start is enough with a key in the column to at least lock the steering.

Years ago I did see the for runner to the current electronically coded key blank. Still that's just good with an on board cpu.

The most inconvenience to a burglar is needing to slam bang the key cylinder out but it's so tight in there that isn't easy to do.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mark Charlton:

removing the steering lock makes the car easier to push places if it's stolen.

True. But the car is insured for more than its worth.

Doug M

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mark Charlton:
the key benefit of Jon's system is that it off-loads the start-up loads away from the ignition switch.

The 2gokeyless system also completely off-loads all the electrical loads from the switch.

Doug M

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug

P-E push button start is enough with a key in the column to at least lock the steering.

I figure if I have to fiddle around getting the key into the cylinder and giving it a couple of turn clicks, I may as well just give it one more and start the car.

And, if I remember from my less responsible youth, most old school steering lock pins can be snapped in half with a quick jerk on the wheel.
Of course, I'm not actually going to test that theory on MY car. I'll let someone else try that.

Doug M

I don't really have a "keyless ignition" however, I do have a keyless car... I have never taken the key out of my pantera regardless of where I was, I'm just never away from the car that long. When my ignition switch went, SOB helped me out with a rebuild. I never put it back in. My car has a drag race type switch panel and push button, I can still turn the key back and lock the steering even though there is no switch in the column.... I do find it much easier to hop in, hit the switches and go....

I like the way the ignition key in the car is located. It's like they tried to hide it and it's like a fraternity with a secret interlocking handshake?

Well, the pushbutton is installed.
Pretty slick really.

It completely disconnects the factory ignition switch. I used the existing wiring block that connects the switch to the wiring harness to connect the controller wires to the side of the block that the original switch wires were on. Four wires out and four wires in. Very straight forward.

Then you need a signal source to tell the controller to power up. For that I used the AUX button signal from the power door lock kit I installed a few years ago. Instead of powering the controller directly, I used the signal to power a switch on the console. When I hit the AUX button, the switch becomes active but there is no visible power to the button.

So, all I need to do, is unlock the doors with the remote, push AUX to power up the button start and throw the fob in my pocket. Jump (more like scrunch) in, flip the switch and hit the button. Zoom, zoom

Because this system completely disconnects the ignition switch, the button has a set program. First push activates the ACC circuits. Second push activates the IGN circuits. The third push has two functions. If you want to start the engine, you push the brake pedal and hit the button. If you don't touch the brake pedal the third push turns all power off.
It all sounds complicated, but it actually works very well.

The one disadvantage is you must activate the brake switch to start the motor, which means you can't hold in the clutch and work the gas pedal. The car must be in neutral so your left foot can press the brake pedal.

I left the steering column lock and ignition switch intact. Used a spare key. Cut the head off and used it to unlock the column. Covered the switch opening with a black plastic cap. It actually looks ok. This will make it much easier to return to original if I want to.

I have only tried it a couple of times. We are still covered in snow here. When I get the car out in the summer, if I don't like it, I can put the whole mess back to stock in a couple of hours.

Now, if somebody figures all this out and steals the car, right after I call my insurance broker, I'll call Mark and Doug and tell them "@#*&" you were right.

Doug M

So did you end up with the "2gokeyless" brand of keyless ignition? I scanned the thread again and came to thus conclusion based on your description of how it off-loads the electrical load. Am I correct?

Thanks.

Devin

Hi Devin,

Yes, you are correct.
I got the "2gokeyless" PBSIII expansion module system. I knew I was going to piggyback my door lock system so I only needed to carry the one key fob.

There are several subtle differences between this system and the Pantera Electronics system, but they basically accomplish the same thing.

The one big disadvantage to the "gokeyless" is if the module craps out for whatever reason, you're toast. You cannot use the ignition switch to start the car.

The one big advantage is you don't need the keys at all, which is what I wanted.

Cheers,
Doug M

Doug,

Thanks for the reply. I also kind of like the idea of not having a key to mess with. I guess there are some potential drawbacks to not having the old ignition and key if something goes wrong, but probably worth the risk to me. To each his own. Thanks again for the info.

Devin

FWIW, I have installed the P-E ISC-01. It works as advertised.

The reason I wanted this is because when I'm strapped into the seat there is NO reaching the ignition. If, for any reason the engine dies, it was necessary to unbuckle to start the car and go through the re-buckle dance. My push to start is on the console behind the shifter (one needs to build a harness and run wires for the switch).

It gets the Pope's seal of approval.

where did you mount the start button? any pic?

I used this. Mounts to the steering wheel hub. You need to make a commutator for it though. There aren't any that you can buy.

tearing apart to get to wiring

ignition switch cap
still need to clean up wiring

finished
used existing hole in console for button

quote:

Originally posted by INZOWHO:
ignition switch cap
still need to clean up wiring

That (^), is a good picture of the brake pedal modification.

------------------v

I put my start button here on the right. Falls at hand.

quote:

Originally posted by tajon:
where did you mount the start button? any pic?

My push to start is on the console behind the shifter (one needs to build a harness and run wires for the switch). Actually, it is where the ashtray would be. Really need a picture?

another shot

Momo does make a steering wheel that mounts the button to it but it wouldn't work with the quick disconnect well.

Here's what it looks like with the wheel out of the way.

If you look closely you will see the plate sandwiched between the hub adapter and the quick release adapter (black line).

That's Wilkinson's ss billet quick release hub for the Momo. After living with it I think, if you don't have one, you need one. It's a work of art craftsmanship wise and a stroke of genius on Steve's part for sure. Very, very trick item.

Makes it so easy to work under the dash with the wheel popped out of the way.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

This is a good picture of the brake pedal modification.

Off topic but it is amazing the difference by doing this one little mod.

Doug M

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I used this.

That piece is very cool. Is that a momo part# or from somewhere else?

Doug M

The button holder is a Momo piece. A lot of people carry them.

I just thought it looked appropriate and liked the location. It makes the start button fall at hand.

It also gives the entire assembly a nice three dimensionality, especially since everything is black except the buttons.

If you are going to go through the effort, put the starter button here. It's worth the effort.

Here's what I did with my button. Turned an aluminum bezel on my lathe.

That is awesome, Doug. Can't wait to see it live ... whenever that is

When I added a push button starter to my Pantera, I found that a Honda S2000 start button fits perfectly in the hazard switch hole, so that's where I put it. I also found the hazard switch fits perfectly in the cigar lighter hole, in the console, so that's where I moved it to (by making a simple extension harness).

I used a start button controller made by KP Technologies. A friend wired it up for me, so that my original keyed ignition still works as a backup, in case the push button starter or controller fail.

Photo of hazard switch relocated to cigar lighter hole in console:

I installed a push button in my car and love it.
As far as stealing it, I have a fuel pump switch, it allows the car to start, but you only go about 1- block or so and the car runs out of gas, but, unless you live in Detroit, who is going to steal your car anyway? The chances are they would rather steal a Honda,they can cut it up and sell the parts, that's reality.

I've had the push button in all season, and I love it. So far it has worked perfectly.
The only thing I found was having to push the brake pedal to start was a pain in the a** so I relocated the source to a button switch beside the push start. Much better. My remote door locks/alarm system also completely disables the ignition system when locked, so the car is still safe.
So far, so good. I won't go back to the keys unless I have to.