Large Black Alternator Cable

  I made that upgrade a number of years ago.  I chose a Ford 3d generation alt.

  I could have gone to the salvage yard or the parts counter but went with a alt from Paperformance model 1614E.  It has 2 ratings they call it 95 amp and else were in the specs they say120 amp at 6000 alternator RPM. (not crankshaft RPM)

https://www.paperformance.com/...3g-alternator-1614e/

   I went to tractor supply and got #2 welding cable to run from the output stud to the battery connection on the starter solenoid. Many aftermaket alt mfg recommend a over current device on the alt output. In my case used a 150 amp manual reset circuit  breaker by Bussman from Autozone.

  This is the time to convert to a expanded scale voltmeter rather than the stock amp meter that is a fire hazard even at the lower stock alt output. 

   The alt comes with your choice of pulley 1V , 2V , or 6V serpentine.

   The 1V pulley is 2.6 inch in diameter.  That is a lot of power for a single belt to carry.  I get one "squawk" of the belt on start up if the battery needs top up.

  This "small frame" alt fits like a glove.  There is minor wiring around the external regulator for the OLD alt , and the idiot light works as before.

    This is also a fine time to repower the electric choke if you have one.  The stator will put out enough voltage to pull in a relay.  That way the choke is only powered if the engine is running.  Other wiring methods may power the electric choke with key on, engine off.  I believe the electric choke housing has provisions for a small amount of air to flow over the heat element when the engine is running.  A vaccum port to the carb body.

   Kind of verbose but think #2 or #4 wire is the answer to your question.

 Just to expound a little bit on David’s comment regarding the OEM amp meter being a “fire hazard.”

 A properly maintained OEM amp meter is no different than any other high amperage connection on a Pantera.  It is not inherently a fire hazard of any sort, but it ..... can ..... become a problem if the cable -to-meter connections are not kept tight and clean.  This is true of any electrical connection, whether in a vehicle or a building. 

 The fire hazard is .... created .... by an owner’s failure to check and maintain the amp meter connections.  

My 2¢

Larry

Larry , you are 100% right , loose high current connections make heat.  There has been mention of burnt connections in the forum but doubt it is the primary cause of fire.  I would guess the rebuildable after market glass fuel filters to be high on the list of fires.  I removed the one on mine that the previous care taker installed.  Sorry if I sound like Chicken Little , I am a elctrician and specilised in fire systems at a hospital.

The Pantera has a number of poor electrical design issues. ( like overloaded ignition switch and main fuse panel)   The amp meter would have been better served with a shunt type meter as in GM vehicles.

   Upgrading to a high output alternator needs upgraded wiring , I doubt any one would run #2 or 4 from the alt to the meter then on to the battery.  I feel the expanded scale volt meter gives more useful information.

   I do acknowledge keeping things looking original may be #1 with some owners , I like to make minor improvements that the factor should have done while keeping it reversable.  After all we are just the current care taker.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I clearly have a wiring mess on my hands! I will attempt to draw a schematic of what I have and post for further comments.

Thanks again!!

Bill