I made that upgrade a number of years ago. I chose a Ford 3d generation alt.
I could have gone to the salvage yard or the parts counter but went with a alt from Paperformance model 1614E. It has 2 ratings they call it 95 amp and else were in the specs they say120 amp at 6000 alternator RPM. (not crankshaft RPM)
I went to tractor supply and got #2 welding cable to run from the output stud to the battery connection on the starter solenoid. Many aftermaket alt mfg recommend a over current device on the alt output. In my case used a 150 amp manual reset circuit breaker by Bussman from Autozone.
This is the time to convert to a expanded scale voltmeter rather than the stock amp meter that is a fire hazard even at the lower stock alt output.
The alt comes with your choice of pulley 1V , 2V , or 6V serpentine.
The 1V pulley is 2.6 inch in diameter. That is a lot of power for a single belt to carry. I get one "squawk" of the belt on start up if the battery needs top up.
This "small frame" alt fits like a glove. There is minor wiring around the external regulator for the OLD alt , and the idiot light works as before.
This is also a fine time to repower the electric choke if you have one. The stator will put out enough voltage to pull in a relay. That way the choke is only powered if the engine is running. Other wiring methods may power the electric choke with key on, engine off. I believe the electric choke housing has provisions for a small amount of air to flow over the heat element when the engine is running. A vaccum port to the carb body.
Kind of verbose but think #2 or #4 wire is the answer to your question.