re-run is easy as the tunnel is wide open. Throw all the mess out, unpluge from fuse bridge..well some you need to EXTEND coming from dash...I did replace all this ..can be done ONE ON ONE!!! same color!!!! ..PLUS add some spare for future use .e-gas pump, oil temp etc..

the best is do a connection like this



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Going to loosen connections in the engine bay and pull as much of it out at the fuse box end as I can.
Should give me enough wire to work with and also see if my little enemies have chewed up any other spots. A peek through the seat belt mount hole is a good idea too.
...Don't use 'Crimp Connectors', they can pull apart! I Suggest You Slide 'Shrink Tubing' On, Connect the Wires and Solder each connection. It's a More Efficient Conductor. First thing...Use Larger Shrink Tubing On the Entire Wire Bundle, to keep it Secure. MJ
...Don't use 'Crimp Connectors', they can pull apart!
you need a correct crimp pliers..and crimp connectors WITH SHRINK capabilites as shown in picture. Much easier to work with then soldering Big Grin
On top shrink tubing anyways..

...Makes the repair Easier, Yes, but not the best conductor. The resistance is higher with the crimp connectors as the wires merely make a contact. Increased Resistance will heat up the Connector, and a constant Heating and cooling will, over-time, loosen. Soldering brings the conductivity to the Molecular Level, with a lesser resistance, and these will Not pull apart.

I have used the Correct Crimp Pliers, and I have had a 10 Gage wire pull out, The Main Supply from the Amp Gauge, It Cost Me $$$ Greatly. Never Again!

One would ask themselves...do the job right or do the job Easy, and then do it AGAIN! It is My Opinion that those Connectors are meant as a 'Easy', Temporary Fix.
agree an Amp meter NEVER use any of this..(through the meter out anyways Cool)
On the other "control wires" is just a question of convenience as soldering is painfull (as IN the car work, I just did app 300 yards of new wires Smiler, on resistance of the connection we can debate..
I WAS MORE on the thought "what is easy to do for nor'easter!".
never mind..

Having experience with production wiring, I, too prefer soldered connections. Please keep in mind that most solders are not the best conductors and have higher DC resistance than copper wire. It’s important to first create a good mechanical connection by a good twist before soldering. Both soldered and crimped joint can suffer from corrosion so as others have said seal the joint with good quality shrink tubing. One simple technique I use is to stagger the location of the splices along the linear run so you don’t end up with a big lump of splices in one spot.

What really matters is using high quality (mil spec)solder, wire and shrink tubing.
Years ago I attended a four day course on nasa soldering. How to assemble / solder stuff that goes to Mars and beyond. It's a mini science / art.
They don't allow wire splices of any kind. But They're building not repairing.

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