nasty spot to splice.
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Oh man, I feel for you... that is a VERY nasty place to do a splice... Best of luck with that!!!
MH
MH
Or re-run it. I've been able to run new wires through the "frame". Remove the seat belt reel and its a straight shot
Hi
re-run is easy as the tunnel is wide open. Throw all the mess out, unpluge from fuse bridge..well some you need to EXTEND coming from dash...I did replace all this ..can be done ONE ON ONE!!! same color!!!! ..PLUS add some spare for future use .e-gas pump, oil temp etc..
the best is do a connection like this
Matthias
re-run is easy as the tunnel is wide open. Throw all the mess out, unpluge from fuse bridge..well some you need to EXTEND coming from dash...I did replace all this ..can be done ONE ON ONE!!! same color!!!! ..PLUS add some spare for future use .e-gas pump, oil temp etc..
the best is do a connection like this
Matthias
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Going to loosen connections in the engine bay and pull as much of it out at the fuse box end as I can.
Should give me enough wire to work with and also see if my little enemies have chewed up any other spots. A peek through the seat belt mount hole is a good idea too.
Should give me enough wire to work with and also see if my little enemies have chewed up any other spots. A peek through the seat belt mount hole is a good idea too.
...Don't use 'Crimp Connectors', they can pull apart! I Suggest You Slide 'Shrink Tubing' On, Connect the Wires and Solder each connection. It's a More Efficient Conductor. First thing...Use Larger Shrink Tubing On the Entire Wire Bundle, to keep it Secure. MJ
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...Don't use 'Crimp Connectors', they can pull apart!
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you need a correct crimp pliers..and crimp connectors WITH SHRINK capabilites as shown in picture. Much easier to work with then soldering
On top shrink tubing anyways..
Matthias
...Don't use 'Crimp Connectors', they can pull apart!
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you need a correct crimp pliers..and crimp connectors WITH SHRINK capabilites as shown in picture. Much easier to work with then soldering
On top shrink tubing anyways..
Matthias
...Makes the repair Easier, Yes, but not the best conductor. The resistance is higher with the crimp connectors as the wires merely make a contact. Increased Resistance will heat up the Connector, and a constant Heating and cooling will, over-time, loosen. Soldering brings the conductivity to the Molecular Level, with a lesser resistance, and these will Not pull apart.
I have used the Correct Crimp Pliers, and I have had a 10 Gage wire pull out, The Main Supply from the Amp Gauge, It Cost Me $$$ Greatly. Never Again!
One would ask themselves...do the job right or do the job Easy, and then do it AGAIN! It is My Opinion that those Connectors are meant as a 'Easy', Temporary Fix.
I have used the Correct Crimp Pliers, and I have had a 10 Gage wire pull out, The Main Supply from the Amp Gauge, It Cost Me $$$ Greatly. Never Again!
One would ask themselves...do the job right or do the job Easy, and then do it AGAIN! It is My Opinion that those Connectors are meant as a 'Easy', Temporary Fix.
"Jack"
agree an Amp meter NEVER use any of this..(through the meter out anyways
)
On the other "control wires" is just a question of convenience as soldering is painfull (as IN the car work, I just did app 300 yards of new wires
, on resistance of the connection we can debate..
I WAS MORE on the thought "what is easy to do for nor'easter!".
never mind..
Matthias
agree an Amp meter NEVER use any of this..(through the meter out anyways
)On the other "control wires" is just a question of convenience as soldering is painfull (as IN the car work, I just did app 300 yards of new wires
, on resistance of the connection we can debate..I WAS MORE on the thought "what is easy to do for nor'easter!".
never mind..
Matthias
I'm with Marlin Jack. I never use crimp connectors. If I crimp a female spade for example, I strip the stupid plastic cover, crimp the connector, solder the connector and then put shrink tubing on it. Trust me it will NOT come apart again.....
I'll third that.
Having worked on DC wiring systems as a career, butt connectors are perhaps one of the worst offenders in terms of creating future problems. I solder the connections and insulate them with heat shrink tubing.
Having worked on DC wiring systems as a career, butt connectors are perhaps one of the worst offenders in terms of creating future problems. I solder the connections and insulate them with heat shrink tubing.
Having experience with production wiring, I, too prefer soldered connections. Please keep in mind that most solders are not the best conductors and have higher DC resistance than copper wire. It’s important to first create a good mechanical connection by a good twist before soldering. Both soldered and crimped joint can suffer from corrosion so as others have said seal the joint with good quality shrink tubing. One simple technique I use is to stagger the location of the splices along the linear run so you don’t end up with a big lump of splices in one spot.
Mike
Mike
What really matters is using high quality (mil spec)solder, wire and shrink tubing.
Years ago I attended a four day course on nasa soldering. How to assemble / solder stuff that goes to Mars and beyond. It's a mini science / art.
They don't allow wire splices of any kind. But They're building not repairing.
Years ago I attended a four day course on nasa soldering. How to assemble / solder stuff that goes to Mars and beyond. It's a mini science / art.
They don't allow wire splices of any kind. But They're building not repairing.
Yes Kim is right.
This type is with leed inside and you only heat them with a hotair gun, the best you can get
Kjeld
This type is with leed inside and you only heat them with a hotair gun, the best you can get
Kjeld
quote:Originally posted by kim k:
These are the best and easiest you can use and waterproof, But don't twist the ends.
