Need Parts Recommendation

Hello Jeff,

Motor Mount Bolts – I have read threads saying
Grade 8 is too hard and won’t flex,
I'm thinking the Motor mounts should flex at the rubber, should not be a problem.

Header Gaskets - Is copper the best for a good seal? Found a set by “Flat-out “#7015C
I've used these and love them, work great!

Header Bolts -Any recommendations? Found a set called “Ramp –Lok”anyone ever use them?
I use new lock washers, no particular brand, stainless or Iron, have not had problems,, I've heard of these, could'nt hurt.

I like ARP products though,
Mark

The motor mount reference your read is likely to the bolts that attach the motor mount to the engine (not teh long bolts that clamp teh motor mount and rubber together), the engine bolts have a habit of shearing off, especially if your motor mounts are worn. I was lucky enough to be able to remove the motor mount and extract mine, but it can be an engine out job.

For header bolts I like the 12 pt 3/8 head bolts as they are so much easier to get a socket or wrench on with tight headers. If you have Aluminum heads then definitely consider the Stage 8 locking style.

Goos luck,
Julian

Motor Mounts:

The solution for motor mount bolts that snap their heads off is not to use lower grade bolts; higher grade bolts that won't stretch, flex or loosen would be better.

Header gaskets:

Ever notice that header gaskets tend to be real thick? Thats because some headers are cheaply made, the flanges distort when the bolts are tightened, or the flanges are "wavy" from the manufacturer. So you need a gasket thick enough to fill in the "gaps" between the head and the header flange. Copper looks like a good material for header gaskets, but it may take 2 gaskets to fill in a real bad gap.

Header fastening:

Here's where I've gotten creative with the McMaster-Carr catalog in decades past.

My solution for fastening headers, IF the chassis and header will allow for it, is to use studs, thick flat washers (aka fixturing washers) and Flexloc (aka Flex-Top) lock nuts. Set the studs in the heads with Loctite and you have a fastening system that will never come loose. The thick flat washers help prevent distortion of the flanges when you tighten the nuts. But to use studs you gotta be able to pull the headers away from the heads far enough to clear the studs.

Most headers have bolts that are impossible to get a wrench or socket onto. The 12 point header bolts Julian mentioned are the usual remedy, but Allen head bolts work just as well. Another method to cope with this issue is to use studs and extra long nuts, known as coupling nuts. You can size the length of the nut so it will stick out far enough that the header tubing is not in the way. A coupling nut is not a lock nut, so you loose the locking capability, but in tight spots its worth the trade-off.

There are extra high temp antiseize thread lubricants on the market too.

-G