Need Radiator Advice

I am not sure about how long they should last but I would think 6 years would be well below life span. One very important step when changing coolant is to be sure ALL air is out of the system. This isnt helped by how difficult our cars are to burp. Any air flowing around in the system will cause erosion in the corners of the passages where the coolant changes direction. . I am not sure where yours started leaking but this might be something to check.

Blaine

Jeff, I think you got a bad radiator. I'm still driving my car with the rad it came with in 1971. The previous owner did fix one leak, and I know I'm on borrowed time with it, but 6 years is way low for lifespan.

I'd replace it.

Anyone have a bad experience with a Hall radiator?
Can someone recommend a good aftermarket radiator?

quote:

Originally posted by Pantera#4134:
Anyone have a bad experience with a Hall radiator?
Can someone recommend a good aftermarket radiator?

I have an aluminum rad from "Pantera Performance" (not sure if they manufacture or just re-badge it). Built like a brick sheet-house. Very nice welds.

quote:

Originally posted by DannyOcean:

quote:

Originally posted by Pantera#4134:
Anyone have a bad experience with a Hall radiator?
Can someone recommend a good aftermarket radiator?

I have an aluminum rad from "Pantera Performance" (not sure if they manufacture or just re-badge it). Built like a brick sheet-house. Very nice welds.

Same here, very happy with it.

Blaine

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:

quote:

Originally posted by DannyOcean:

quote:

Originally posted by Pantera#4134:
Anyone have a bad experience with a Hall radiator?
Can someone recommend a good aftermarket radiator?

I have an aluminum rad from "Pantera Performance" (not sure if they manufacture or just re-badge it). Built like a brick sheet-house. Very nice welds.

Same here, very happy with it.

Blaine

I am pretty sure that the Pantera Performance radiators are made by Ron Davis Radiator in Phoenix Arizona. I have had one of the three pass lay down ones for quite a while and I am happy with it.

Anyone using the Fluidine model? I was surprised to see them from Summit @ $ 488.00

I have the Pantera Performance radiator also. After about 2 years and about 3000 miles it developed leaks at the corners.Dennis offered to replace it for $500 + shipping for just the radiator without the fans.For $1100 it should last longer than two years in a "weekend" car!

Ron

quote:

Anyone using the Fluidine model? I was surprised to see them from Summit @ $ 488.00

Yep, that's where I got mine and the flexalite puller fans plus an adjustable t-stat to control them. I'm very happy with it all so far, runs right at 185 and I have a 185 t-stat. Yesterday I was at a local SCCA event on the track and working it hard not even a slight increase in temp. Wish I could say the same for the brakes as they faded on me, that's the next upgrade.

If you don't intend to use the two original type fan switches you'll need to order a 22mm x 1.5 (I think I remember the size correctly) plug for what will be the spare boss on the radiator as well.

Julian

quote:

Anyone using the Fluidine model? I was surprised to see them from Summit @ $ 488.00

Yea,I got mine from Wilkerson last year for $460.00.It was on sale.Built very well and I am very pleased.Bolted right in.

I got mine from Cory Gehling, Collector's Choice. $1200, fully brazed, no epoxy, with fans, shroud and temp sensors.

Much more substantial than the Fluidyne units I have seen.

I have a custom radiator from Dennis Quella. It is based on his normal design, but is a single pass radiator. I feel it reduces speed through the radiator and reduces restriction. I can idle for extended periods with just one fan and on really hot days, both fans will allow it to idle indefinately. If you want a single pass design, just ask for the Dave Doddek radiator.

There are hundreds of Fluidynes in Panteras. they are not expensive and the shrouded sucker fans from [I forget the name] fit perfectly. it's an easy install and it works. Why mess with anything else.

I got a Fluidyne from Wilkenson. It's a work of art. I have to pushers and one sucker fan, running off the two temp switches and one manual switch. So far I haven't been able to get it hot enough to see the 2nd fan run!

Jeff,
Why not just try some Bar's Leak? I have had some good results with it. My Fluidyne sprung a leak. In went the Bar's Leak, no more leak. I'm sold.
Art

Jeff,

I'll play "devil's advocate" and go against current Pantera-think concerning radiators. Stick with a stock style copper-brass radiator. I should last 20 years or more. I just replaced mine 2 years ago and expect another 30 years of service from the new unit. Aluminum is not "better," just different. Automotive manufacturers switched to aluminum because it's cheaper, not because it works better. A traditional copper-brass radiator can be fixed by any radiator shop or service station across the country if necessary. The same can't be said for an aluminum radiator.

My car consistently runs cool with the stock style radiator, rebuilt stock cooling fan motors, and Cortina fan blades. It doesn't matter if it's a 105-degree day and I'm in stop and go traffic, or cruising at 90 mph for 45 minutes straight.

FWIW - Several of the vendors I spoke to no longer sell Aluminum radiators due to problems with leaking. I bought my radiator from PPC-Reno.

Here are pics of my radiator compartment refresh, done at the same time I replaced the radiator:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562...420018144#6420018144

All,
Thank you for your replies. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to pull the current radiator and have it repaired. This Hall radiator cools great even with stock style fans.
I found the previous repair and it was actually 8 years ago. I guess that is not too bad all things considered. This might be just prolonging an eventual replacement, but it saves some $$$ today for the 10" Campys I want this year !

quote:

Aluminum is not "better," just different.

In fact the "old" metal dissipates heat faster than aluminum.

Bars Leak has come up before on the POCA list and reportedly works better than expected.

I like that the aluminum radiator was considerably lighter than the brass/copper original, but now after only 4 years of only driving in the summer the Fluidize is leaking. I went to the Fluidize Webster and found others with leaking problems, the warrantee is 1 year so no factory fix. Anybody know if an aluminum radiator can be repaired?
Thanks, Jon

...I did not want to go to an Aluminum radiator! Aluminum starts to 'Disolve' as soon as you put the coolant in. This Brass lasted 34 years and still hasn't started leaking. Brass in opinion is just better for radiators. Second I don't have an issue with lightening the nose, as the nose is too light already! You know, on windy days, the wind effects the steering; so I wanted to keep the weight there. I took the original 34 yrs. old radiator to a highly regarded shop up here in Stockton, Ca. I wanted a brand new brass 'built from scratch' with todays technology, so I can have 'peace of mind' when driving long distances through the Deserts on the hottest days of summer. Thats what I got! My tanks were still good, so he built off of those, 5 new cores, the best money can buy. Louverd fins, new technology over the old design. removed and sealed off the temp switches, I don't use them. New Brass petcock, reinforced In and Out Tubes. Done in one week; Gauranteed for 5 years! cost $595...

Marlin Jack/anyone,

You plugged your thermostats on the radiator? How do you fans go on...manually or new auto thermostats?

My radiator was replaced with a brass version of the original with more cores for increased flow/cooling, but the stock thermostats were bypassed and the fans switch on manually. I want to add new thermostats that will turn on one fan at 190+/- and the other fan at 200+/-...so now I'm researching auto thermostat options???

Any suggestions?

As a follow-up, I have investigated the Fluidyne reliablity to find at least one Pantera vender stop selling Fluidyne because of 4 out of 5 leaked shortly after installation. I went to the Fluidyne website tech support and there are others with leaking problems.
Bottom line ... Marlins' advice is best on all counts.
Jon

Gents ,
check out this thread!
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/4670077164/p/4.
1000mi on the odometer with a few blast past 165mph, several stop and go cruises and not a drip,
doesnt overheat,steady at 165 *F, very clean.

Mark