Re: New battery cables

Donny DotsonMember

Because of the voltage drop that was affecting my ignition system I replaced all my battery cables with 2/0 gauge wire. The ends had been replaced by the P.O. years ago poorly. I thought after I cut back the insulation I would find the wire to be fuzzy and corroded but no, the wire looked new. I all so installed a new group 27 battery with a 1,000 cranking amps. The car now has only .2 volt drop during cranking. Ignition problem solved. I was not looking forward to changing out the main cable that goes threw the rocker but is was a cake walk due to I had removed my A/C lines and routed them threw the console when I redid the A/C system previously. I could see on the 71, a bad battery cable could easily burn one of these cars to the ground. Keep it insured for top dollar.

5/4/227:26 AM

❤️ 0

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

stevebuchananMember

Thanks Donny.

I recently recycled original battery cables in an effort similar to yours. They were out of the car and they looked healthy. As a precaution I added an additional layer of shrink tubing to the cables. They came out looking nice and might last another 50 years.

5/4/228:47 PM

❤️ 0

roctomMember

Any suggestions on removal of the complete cable? The area from the fuse box to front trunk compartment looks challenging to snake the main wire through.

5/5/229:47 AM

❤️ 0

stevebuchananMember

The battery cable moves through the channel without much trouble. It is easier to pull it from wheel well side. You will need to remove the terminal at the battery and attach a pull wire for reinstallation of the new cable.

Below is my restored cable.

Attachments

Hide

Images (1)

5/5/2210:58 AM

❤️ 0

panterapattMember

Steve: Did you install a battery cut off switch? pics if you did?

5/5/224:43 PM

❤️ 0

stevebuchananMember

No cutoff switch at this time.

5/5/224:53 PM

❤️ 0

larrywMember

This quick disconnect battery clamp has been on 7102 since she arrived in 2006. Quick and effective, it has never given me trouble. Just flip up the cap and off it comes. When in place it completely covers and protects the battery terminal connection from accidental contact with stray metal things.

It is marked as having an 800 amp rating.

I came across a positive and negative set of them later, they'll be installed on one of the other cars when battery cable attention is required.

I also have a disconnect switch set aside. It was pulled from another car, looks like a good piece, with 5/16" solid brass terminals, from Cole-Hersee, made in Boston, USA. According to the label it's only got a 20 amp continuos and a 125 amp momentary rating at 12 volts. Seems kind of low, but it worked fine in the prior application.