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John,

Engine out of the car is the easy way! You will need an rtv silicone in the corners where the cork meets the rubber end seals. I don't know whether correct or not but I would aslo run a bead along the inner mating face of the rubber end seals for piece of mind.

If I'm doing it in the car I use a thin bead of blue rtv to hold the gaskets to the block while I offer up the pan as well.

Others may have different advice?

Julian
I have a buddy that used to work for GM. He told me the best thing to do is spray the block rails with spray adhesive as well as the block side of the gasket. The adhesive holds the gaskets in place and you can put a bead of silicon or permatex #2 on the pan side of the gasket. Use silicon in the corners of the pan gaskets. Just make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean before using the spray adhesive. Since he told me this I do it for my gaskets as well. It works great.

Blaine
Here is Crazy Dave's sure fire method for sealing cork gaskets.

Apply Permatex High Tack to one side of the gasket and the solid surface (block, head). When applicable also apply to the rubber ends. Stick the cork gasket to the block/head. For pans, apply a small amount of ultra black to the end of of the copper gaskets. Insert the rubber ends. Apply a thin, and I mean thin, amount of ultra black to the exposed cork surface. For pans, apply a small amount of ultra black to the spot where the rubber meets the cork. Apply pan/valve cover and tighten bolts until the gasket just squishes in the bolt area about 1/16 inch out.

I do this to all cork gaskets. Never had a leak. In fact, I had all my valve cover bolts fall out once and the valve cover was still on solid without leaks. But be warned, they will be very hard to remove.

Note, you must use the Ultra silicone sealant. The others are loosened by oil. The Ultra sealants are not effected by oil. Read the package.
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