Pantera # 5357 - Rocky's 1973 L model

Rocky what you might want to do is inserting the long Bolt that holds the Alternator from the rear side. It will be a lot of work to get that thing out if you ever need to change it. Been there done that ;-) In fact the kit I got from Kirk had a welded Nut on the rear side which I drilled the Threads out off to slide the bolt in from that side and put a Nut on the front side.
Jan

quote:

Rocky what you might want to do is inserting the long Bolt that holds the Alternator from the rear side. It will be a lot of work to get that thing out if you ever need to change it. Been there done that ;-) In fact the kit I got from Kirk had a welded Nut on the rear side which I drilled the Threads out off to slide the bolt in from that side and put a Nut on the front side.

Great idea Jan! I'll have to be sure to do that when I reinstall my engine in a few weeks.

Hey Rocky, I see you had to use washers to shim your ac/alt bracket at the block. I had to do this as well when I installed my engine last year in order to get the proper belt alignment.

Here is Rocky having fun working on his Pantera.

here is a shot of the inside of the driverside header

Note that the picture in Post 106 is the collector BEFORE modifications to a 2 1/2" tube.

We were concerned about the flow restrictions based on the alignment of the collector. It looked pretty bad!

PS> Goodroc - I decided now is the time to make these kind of changes, so I pulled the assembly and will reverse the bolt. Thanks for the tip.

PSS> Garth - On mine, the alignment looked pretty good when I bolt the bracket right up against the engine block with the two 1/2" bolts. I just decided to fill the space in the back with washers so the bracket didn't deform when I tightened it down. But it makes sense that that spacing is there for pulley alignment. You learn something new with every post (and every time I put that bracket in and out!).

PSSS> Garth - good to hear you engine is going back in.. Did you do anything other than fix the bent pushrods/rockers?
Rocky

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:


Motor Mounts and Formed Heater Hoses...

The formed hoses are the shizzle for the Pantera application.

[IMG]
http://i1298.photobucket.com/a...dium_zps82c04115.jpg [/url]
Rocky

Where did you buy the 90 degree hoses?

Anders - I just got them at a standard parts store. I just asked the guy behind the counter to find me a pair.

I don't know if you have O'Reilly Auto Parts in your neck of the woods. I have two different hoses (one is slightly shorter than the other). Either will work - it's just the length of the straight end that is different.

Part Numbers are DAYCO 80417 & DAYCO 80418.

Here's a link to one on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Dayco-80...t-Hose/dp/B000C0TE8W

More Exhaust Work

Here's my upgraded tailpipes. Moved up from 1-7/8" to 2-1/2". Hooked to my ANSAs.

Expect a little "fitment" action after we put them on the car, but I am getting closer to "First Light". I can't wait.

Rocky

Here's one mounted up. Note the Flange Clamp vs. the old style 3 bolt attachment tuber-deal.

More progress last night....

I've got my tanks (Swirl and Overflow) mocked / mounted up with only minor issues.

Here's some pictures - I may want to bend the tubes to bring the swirl tank down so the lip is on the clamp. Recommendations?

Another step forward!










Rocky

quote:

I may want to bend the tubes to bring the swirl tank down so the lip is on the clamp. Recommendations?

You could make a spacer.

What's with the fitting (tee with elbow) on top of what appears to be a PCV valve?

John

The little thing on top of the PCV valve is actually plugged (from the factory), but it allows you to remove the plug.

I am not sure why you might connect your PCV to two sources of vacuum, but that's what it seems to be.

It's nutty!

Thanks for the idea on the Spacer - I am just trying to make things look good, with minimal downtime. Now is the time to bend those tubes down before we fill them with coolant.

quote:

Garth - good to hear you engine is going back in.. Did you do anything other than fix the bent pushrods/rockers?

Replaced all valve springs with new dual valve springs - remember, one of my fancy new beehive springs broke (turned out several were out of spec so much so that I suffered coil bind situation). Had to re-machine the heads, new teflon valve guides, new valve job and additional porting to clean of the newbie mistakes made by the shop that originally ported them, and replaced all the roller rockers (Scorpion warranty replacement) because I discovered that the pushrod was contacting the underside of the rocker body at full lift. I apparently received an OLD box of Scorpion roller rockers that must have sat on the shelf for years (they were silver instead of blue). According to the warranty tech, the old rocker body doesn't have as much clearance to support their advertised lift capacity. The new blue roller rockers have much more clearance.

my thoughts on the swirl tank...
even though "thinking" about how I want my coolant is very far down on my list, I am sure I am going to do similair to swirl tank with continous venting.

I'm thinking I want the swirl elevation as low as possible but with the top just above the top of the block elbow. this is where the top of the swirl will be the high point of the block and hopefully the level in the pressure (formerly overflow) tank will also be at the top of the swirl.

Great job. I'm enjoying the build.

JF -

The setup I am using, I believe was originally developed by Carroll Smith while working the GT-40 program with another famous Carroll.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carroll_Smith

Anyway - the large (Overflow) tank is actually under suction from the water pump. The two inflows at the top are designed to remove air from the radiator and the top of the swirl tank.

Other than that (the Overflow tank plumbing) - it is similar to your drawing.

*** Update: Here is a nice diagram of my setup, taken from one of George's detailed threads. Scroll down to the cooling system part.

GP Sticky on Cooling System Configuration


Java - I am glad you are enjoying it - I am trying to make some progress daily - Hopefully soon we will be driving!

Rocky

Thanks for the referance to Carrol Smith. When I get a chance I'll get his books.

I greatly apprecaite your posts and photos

quote:

posted document 'May 25, 2014 06:21 PM'

I updated the Heater Valve Info (Page 6). I would have moved it, but there was other discussion there.

Thanks JF - I figured this is a good way to show off all the stuff we are doing - hopefully, most of it won't be obvious to the casual concourse judge!

Garth - looking forward to another video!


Rocky

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:
Anders - I just got them at a standard parts store. I just asked the guy behind the counter to find me a pair.

I don't know if you have O'Reilly Auto Parts in your neck of the woods. I have two different hoses (one is slightly shorter than the other). Either will work - it's just the length of the straight end that is different.

Part Numbers are DAYCO 80417 & DAYCO 80418.

Here's a link to one on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Dayco-80...t-Hose/dp/B000C0TE8W

Thanks!!

Looks real nice, you want to come do my wiring? Lol last step on my list...