Pantera alloy radiator

Sorry to hear that, but this aluminum problem does seem to crop up more. My original radiator has a leak now, so I'm researching before I make a decision. Best wishes.

Because of the iron engine and aluminum radiator materials, corrosion is accelerated due to the dissimilar metals. The best corrosion protection that I have found is manufactured by Applied Chemical Specialties who sell it under the name No Rosion. They used to sell the product Hyperkuhl which was a corrosion inhibitor and water wetter in on but has since sold off the Hyperkuhl line. No Rosion is a total corrosion protection product without the water wetter. I researched and found this to be the best product available and eventually became a distributor. It has been featured in several auto magazines and used to be recommended by Fluidyne (not sure if it still is)

See other threads for the information on corrosion:

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...=719104115#719104115

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...=665106335#665106335

You can see the product line at:

www.norosion.com

I'm not sure if there is a distributor where you are but if you are interested in becoming a distributor, contact me off line and I can help set you up as the owner and I have become personal friends.

Most of the electrolysis damage comes from local water being acidic. There's a fairly simple test one can run at home with a really good Volt-ohmmeter. You remove the coolant filler cap, set your meter for the lowest voltage setting it has (0-1vDC or less), stick one probe into the coolant while grounding the other. A reading of 70 millivolts or more indicates that electrolysis is dangerously active in your cooling system and will dissolve any contacted aluminum: cylinder heads, water pumps and radiators. My '72 L, using Nevada water plus 50% anti-freeze gives 30 millivolts doing this test and that's considered a 'safe' value. It DOES require a high quality meter: I used a $275 Fluke VOM- repeating the test with a $6 Radio Shack VOM, I got no reading at all.
FWIW, stock Corvettes have had alloy radiators for 30+ years, and Z-28 Camaros for nearly that long, so 'Vette specialty shops have a handle on the problem. Our Pantera has alloy-everything- some of it 20 years old and no troubles yet.
There are several fixes for acidic water: an additive sold as 'No-Rosion' is included with all Fluidynes sold thru their dealers. A sacrificial anode of magnesium can be dropped into the coolant Of course, while it reacts with the acid, it also generates hydrogen, just like a battery.... You can also frequently change all the coolant, adding fresh anti-freeze which contains additives for the problem. Swimming-pool pH paper or water test kits can verify acidity of local water.
Note also that with your high-quality meter, you can also check grounding- Pantera grounding woes are common. Repeat the voltage test above, but once the meter reading stabilizes, turn on the headlights. If the meter reading changes radically, you have a ground problem in that circuit. Repeat with all the other electrical devices to trouble-shoot the whole car's system. Note also that ALL these tests are with the engine OFF.

BTW, Robert- it's likely won't do you much good out at the end of the world unless there's a local dealer, but Fluidyne warranties its products pretty thoroughly. One New Jersey Pantera owner went through three (3!) Fluidyne radiators in one year, prompting Fluidyne to start shipping No-Rosion with their rads free of charge. They also replaced all 3 assemblies... Try e-mailng them; you may get a pleasant surprise.

Is NoRosion or Hyperkuhl distributed in Europe ?
I race Fluydyne rad on Candy factory GR4 car , and would gladly use these product. ( I can even advertize it on the car for a small million USD , lol...)
Tks
Patrick
Candy 2862 - ADA 9628

Jack that's exactly along the lines of what I heard. Particularly the grounding issues.

This appears to be very problematic in Panteras. I wonder if anybody has ever written up a paper on electolysis caused by inferior grounding from an automotive perspective.

I searched all Aussie sites for No Rosion / Hyperkul but only found US links to a Harry Negron? who may be a distributor in San Juan.

I am a distributor in Nevada and Hawaii but for you guys out of the U.S. you may as well get it straight from the manufacturer. You may consider becoming dealer and making some money or at the least getting your product for cheap or free. If interested, send me email at dhyogi@gmail.com and I'll hook you up with the owner. I know that he has distributors in Germany, and South Africa but not sure about other places. Great product takes care of the bad grounding cause of corrosion as well. Read the earlier links that I posted on this thread, it addresses the electrolisis by bad grounding