Not sure if anyone is interested, but if they are, here's what I've got....

The photos are quick ones I snapped. I'll get more/better ones if any one is interested in this stuff. PM me with your email address.

Feel free to make offers.

You pay shipping.


1 Set Port Plates for 4V Head. Intake Side. $100

Glass Fuel Filter $10 - This is the kind that can crack, and spray fuel all over your headers. Not recommended, except for static engine displays.

Header Doughnuts (Qty 4). Worked on "Hall Big Bore" Headers and stock Ansa Tailpipes. $20

Two Stock Radiator Thermal Switches. Excellent Used Conditions. $15 each or both for $25

Ford D1TZ-7600-A Bearing (Bushing) Clutch Pilot. Bronze, Non-Magnetic. New. Fits certain Mustangs - Doesn't fit Panteras (and probably not 351C flywheels)

2x Deadly Dorman #14656 Clutch Pilot Bushing (Same as Dorman 691-039). Magnetic. Contains sintered iron. Guaranteed to grind your expensive ZF input shaft into a thin toothpick within 200 miles of installation. Fits 351C & Pantera. $4 each. Or you could buy one of Marlin's at $135 each.


Used Telecars & Springs ('73 Car), ~100K Miles on them $100 (OBO) with all hardware, spacers, rubber parts, etc.  - (SOLD)

Lower Upright Shafts (Pair) - Used but good condition. I'll pull them out of the bag and get pictures for you if there is interest. (SOLD)

Used Aristons & Springs ('72 Car), ~20K Miles on them $150 with all hardware, spacers, rubber parts, etc. (SOLD)

ZF (-2) Fifth Gear Set (.704) (SOLD)

Remote Heater Valve - Move your heater cutoff into the engine bay. (SOLD)

Ford Motorsport Green Strain Relief Duraspark Module. (SOLD)

1x D1AE GA (Closed Chamber) 4V Head. Cleaned and in Great Condition (SOLD)

Original Post
Simon -

The Durasparks are reliable, unless you do something silly, like leave the ignition on the "On" postion for a long time with the engine OFF.

(Note: This behavior is bad for other ignition parts too, like oil filled coils, which have been known to burst when overheated.)

I did that because I don't have any buzzers hooked up in my car (Ignition or Seat Belt).

I am actually looking for a simple circuit that gives me an "Ingition Buzzer" that gives me buzzing when the engine is OFF, but ignition is ON, that:

1. Is simple
2. Ties into existing L Wiring without disabling other functionality
3. Looks clean
4. Is inexpensive

Just the challenge for someone like JFB!

Originally posted by Rocky: do something silly, like leave
the ignition on the "On" postion for a long time
with the engine OFF me buzzing
when the ignition is OFF,
but engine on,...

Conflicting logic!

Funny, I was actually had a passing thought of a similar circuit to defeat (block out) a starter switch IF the engine is running.

Keeping it old tech, I was thinking of using a relay to sense that the alternator was spinning (ie engine running). Relay is energized when alternator output is devolped (same as old mechanical regulator switch over)
Originally posted by Rocky:
Simon -

The Durasparks are reliable, unless you do something silly, like leave the ignition on the "On" postion for a long time with the engine OFF.


But normal whit a running engine they dont failed?

Before on my Mustang and a Pantera I use a MSD module,but they failed both.

Simon -

There's a joke that MSD stands for "Might Suddenly Die".

I have not used MSD, so I shouldn't comment on MSD performance, but from what I understand, the Duraspark Devices are reliable under normal operations.

I have not had an issue with the Duraspark in my vehicle under normal driving (and it was in the vehicle for 50 K miles) - until I burnt it up by leaving the key on for a long time.

Regards -

Originally posted by Rocky:
sale ( 25 USD ) are

Sorry, Patrick - I'm going to hold onto these.

Although it would be cool to say some of my parts are on CANDY!!!



Hello Rocky,

you mention a pair of lower uprights, which I am not too sure what you mean, are these what we call the kingpins? I don't think so for they would be very very Cheap. One of my front Left hand threaded upright was badly bent, I had it straightened but would like one thats not suffered so. regards Pete
Hi Peter -

What I have are the shafts that run across the bottom of the rear uprights / axle carriers.

These are ~1/2" diameter steel shafts that the rear uprights can pivot on. I'll get a parts breakdown posted to clarify.

There are two shafts wrapped in the plastic bag about halfway down the picture on the first page.

Hi Ken -

The Aristons are the first picture after the port plates. They are in "clean" (20K mile of use) condition.

They are the ones you see with the labels that you can read.

Send me your email via PM, and I'll get more pictures if you like.

Shipping will most likely be expensive, but actually, I could have a friend drive them to Baker, Oregon in a couple of days if that helps.


OK, so I have done tons of searching/researching about stock shocks.  


It seems that for '74 cars, the shocks are Telecars, and the fronts were black and the rears were dark blue?  or mediujm blue?


Rocky's picture above seems to show a black one and a medium blue one...?

Here is an old post:"

So should the front black Telecar shocks be left black? If they are adjustable, what is the procedure for setting them up? I've disassembled the coil over and have found them to have minimal resistance to compression, but maximum resistance to extension.

Thanks again,"

Aristons are SOLD...  This is just for historical interest.

So just to add a little detail....

My car (#5357) was built in April '1973 (from the Door Tag).  The Telecars came off my car.   I have a set of 4 shocks still in my garage.

I sold the set of 4 Aristons that came off a '71 or 72 (an earlier car than mine) to one of our members.  The Aristons show that there are different colors as well (this surprised the heck out of me, but...). 

Based on the coil thincness and number of turns, I would say the blue ones go on the rear...

Crazy!  I remembered them being all the same color!


P1010006 [Medium)P1010031 [Medium)P1010032 [Medium)P1010033 [Medium)P1010034 [Medium) 


Photos (5)

Decades ago, adjustable black Aristons were rumored to have been built by Koni in Europe. If true and they adjust like older Konis, they are tedious to adjust. Demount the shock, remove the spring, remove the roll pin that retains the shock top to the shock rod. Unscrew the top from the rod. Then carefully collapse the rod into the shock body until it won't move down any more.

With a small wrench, swing the rod around while pushing down a bit until you feel it engage 'something'. The inside end of a Koni is a fork that engages recesses in a movable ring.  Once the fork and recesses are aligned, the rod should drop a bit further. Now turning the wrench while holding down on the rod, you can shift the damping adjustment ring. I think there are possible 4 positions. Because of the amount of wt in back, I used to adjust one notch stiffer in back than in front.

To go further with Aristons, Pat Mical in Tyngsboro, Massachusetts used to thread stock steel Ariston bodies for a Koni adjustment nut, thus turning them into height-adjustable coil-overs. Pat runs 'Performance Auto Technology' at (978) 649-2211. Remember, Eastern Std Time zone. Tell him we haven't forgotten him.

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