Installed it about a year ago, when it first came out. So far so good. But the initial install was a pain, as the unit was not getting enough power. So had to run a primary line from the battery, that was switched with a relay. After that... it worked and continues to work like a charm, tach included. Cheers JC71
Thanks. I found your thread about it. My car has the resistive ignition wire bypassed and uses a ballast resister that I will be able to bypass easily. I’m not sure if I can mechanically install it in my Accel dual point distributor that is designed for racing applications, so we will see. The Ignitor III is the first unit Pertronix has made that is thin enough to possibly fit, so I thought it was worth a try. My Accel points are the same shape and design as 60s vintage GM points so I’m using a GM kit. I have a couple of spare Accel distributors so I’ll be able to work out the mechanics on the bench. If I can make it work then I’ll need to buy a spare Ignitor III for backup parts.
In a way, I hate to give up my dual points, we’ve been very good friends for twelve years.
For sure points are the real deal. If I can engineer a way to install the Ignitor III, I think I’ll set it up so I could drop the primary points in easily and keep a “points” fall back kit in the car. Don’t trust this new sparky stuff. :-)
Looks like I have the mechanical details worked out and the modifications to the distributor have been pretty simple and easy to do. Again, I’m installing this in a distributor not supported by Pertronix, thus the extra work. The Pertronix Ignitor III is usually just a drop in installation in supported distributors.
I’m going to do a web page on Pantera Place on how I did this but for now here are a couple of before and after pictures. Note that this Accel distributor is a very special animal and no one makes a conversion for it. I would have just bought a new distributor but I didn’t build this engine and I didn’t what to take a chance and have the oil pump drive fall in the oil pan.
It is all working now and can be seen at http://www.panteraplace.com/page223.htm The first unit I received had a temperature related problem that caused a miss after the engine heated up to full operating temperature and driven awhile. It was either the Ignitor III or some problem it was causing with my original Mallory coil. The tach would also intermittently jump around at idle like it was missing pulses. I replaced the first Ignitor III with a new unit and installed the matching Pertronix low resistance Blaster III coil that is made for the application and it works great. Pertronix tells me that their units seldom if ever have heat problems so I’m a bit lost on what was going on.
I have decades of experience using points so I know how to get the best from them and I was somewhat surprised with how much better the engine runs. It even sounds different!! Sounds like a Slick50 ad but it was very surprising!!
After running the Pertronix Ignitor III for a few weeks, I decided to add an Ignition relay to bypass the ignition load on the ignition switch and through the relay provide the Ignitor III fused power directly from the battery lead on the starter solenoid. I wasn't having any problems feeding the power to the Ignitor III through the ignition switch but it seemed like a good idea. The details are at the bottom of the page http://www.panteraplace.com/page223.htm The direct load to the battery is so small it doesn’t seem to cause the AMP gauge to show incorrect charge.
Other than it being hotter than heck in the garage today, it was a pretty easy project.
A few weeks ago, I also changed out my Holley 600 for a new 650 and installed new Autolite 25 plugs gaped at .040. Found it interesting that I had to go to a taller air filter to clear the 650 but was able to get it under the screen with a little adjustment on the back of the screen. Could have got a 750 for a bit less money but the 650 seemed like the best match for my modified engine.
FWIW the new Holley 600s do not have externally adjustable float level anymore.
I used the Ignitor III because it was thin and I needed that for it to fit in the Accel distributor and it also does multi spark at all RPMs (BTW, the MSD only does that in the lower RPMs). The Ignitor II, depending on the car uses a plastic part that fits over the distributer cam that has eight magnets in it that has been a failure point for some people. The Ignitor III reluctance head fits very close to the distributer cam and triggers directly on the cam high points.
I have fairly long arms so installing the Ignitor III without removing the distributor was pretty easy. Much less effort than changing points. Of course I did all of my mod work on the bench so it was just a bolt in process when I put it in the car. For a stock Pantera distributor it would be an easy plug and play process. You will need to magnetize two of your screw drivers to install the four screws though. It is also a good idea to cover the carb when you are working with small parts so I use a plastic cover that came with the carb.
Mike, Sounds like the 3 unit is a better made. Do you still have the boxes from the unit and coil? I understand certain Pertronix parts are now" Made in China" I will stay with my OEM dual point if this is true.
Jeff "No known Chinese crap in my Pantera"
Sorry I can not make DD. I am helping a friend of my daughter's find a used car.
They best not have sold me a piece of junk Chinese coil filled with all kinds of cancer causing chemicals that will leach out and kill my family and our cat. The box has an American flag, in color, with “United we Stand” printed on it.
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