Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

At last-someone who still runs a stock ignition! Your problem may be sticking centrifugal weights in the advance mechanism, or a broken spring in same. The tiny posts the weights swing on sometimes wear, creating a stepped pivot which gives a jerky effect to an engine. Red rust under the cap is a dead giveaway that something in the advance area is badly worn. Any electrical problem likely wouldn't constantly correct itself as you say
At last-someone who still runs a stock ignition! Your problem may be sticking centrifugal weights in the advance mechanism, or a broken spring in same. The tiny posts the weights swing on sometimes wear, creating a stepped pivot which gives a jerky effect to an engine. Red rust under the cap is a dead giveaway that something in the advance area is badly worn. Any electrical problem likely wouldn't constantly correct itself as you say
Of course, it might just be a worn-out carb, or old rings that are letting oil in the combustion chamber
I just noticed that all the spitting and spattering seems to be comming out one side of the exhaust. I still wonder if it could possibly be one of the points (maybe sticking?). In a dual point system, do one set of points operate one side of the engine? If so, maybe some vaseline or KY on the points may help stop sticking?
I am still having some problems with the car skipping. Replaced the coil, as oil was comming out of the coil, but still seems to skip somewhat. I can't figure what else to do except maybe switch to electonic ignigion. I hear MSD isn't really that great. Any other suggestions??
YOU SAID THAT IT SEEMS TO BE "SPUTTERING" FROM ONE EXHAUST SIDE, IF THIS IS SO, THEN IT CANNOT BE THE IGNITION OR THE CARBURATER, AS BOTH SIDES WOULD BE EFFECTED. MY GUESS WOULD BE: 1. BLOWN HEAD GASKET. 2. BURNED OR STICKING EXHAUST VALVE. 3.EXHAUST LEAK. 4. BURNED AND SHORTED PLUG WIRE. 5. WORSE YET, MELTED PISTON OR BROKEN RINGS. 6. THE EASY FIX MIGHT BE, TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOUR PLUG WIRES ARE GOING TO THE CORRECT PLUG/S. GOOD-LUCK! REGARDS, MARLIN.
A FINAL WORD ABOUT DUAL POINTS. THE TWO WORK TOGETHER TO INCREASE THE DWELL; WHICH IS THE AMOUNT OF TIME THAT THE COIL IS TURNED ON AND IS BEING SATURATED WITH ELECTRICTRICITY. YOU SEE A SINGLE POINT SET CLOSES AND THEN OPENS TOO FAST (IT IS THE OPENING THAT FIRES THE SPARK)BEING TOO FAST DOES NOT GIVE THE COIL ENOUGH TIME TO FULLY "SATURATE"(BECAUSE ONE CAM LOBE CAN ONLY KEEP ONE SET OF POINTS OPEN FOR SO LONG AT ANY GIVEN RPM), THEREFORE VOLTAGE IS DOWN. WITH DUAL POINTS (AT TWO DIFFERENT CAM LOBES) THE "TIME" IS COMBINED GIVING THE COIL MORE TIME OR "DWELL" TO BUILD UP VOLTAGE. WHEN BOTH POINTS ARE OPEN AND THE CURRENT IS SHUT OFF, IT CAUSES A "COLLAPSE" OF THE MAGNETIC FIELD IN THE PRIMARY WINDINGS WHICH THEN PASSES THROUGH THE SECONDARY WINDINGS PRODUCING THE HIGH VOLTAGE SPARK!! IN THE LAWS OF ELECTICAL PHYSICS; A "RISING" AND "FALLING" MAGNETIC FIELD AROUND A COIL OF WINDINGS IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS A "WINDING" OF WIRE ROTATING WITHIN A MAGNETIC FIELD JUST LIKE A GENERATER (DC) OR ALTERNATER (AC-THEN RECTIFIED) BUT IN THIS CASE OF HIGH VOLTAGE; MORE LIKE A MAGNETO!!! LASTLY; THE "CONDENSER" IS REALLY A CAPACITOR WHICH "SHUNTS" THE ELECTRON CURRENT TO GROUND (WITHOUT SHORTING IT) PREVENTING THE POINT GAPS FROM ARCING UPON OPENING, PREVENTING THIS ARCING MAKES FOR AN ABSOLUTE "CLEAN BREAK" IN THE CUTTING OFF OF THE CURRENT TO THE COIL AND THUS PRODUCES A MORE INSTANTANEOUS AND "RICHER" SPARK". THATS ALL I KNOW, HOPE I DIDNT BORE ANYBODY. MARLIN.
IN MY OPINION; NOTHING BEATS AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION!! CERTAINLY NOT POINTS, SINGLE OR DUAL; BECAUSE THE POINTS ARE ALWAYS BURNING IN AIR. AND EVEN AFTER YOU HAVE JUST ADJUSTED THEM, AS SOON AS YOU START THE ENGINE,THEY START WEARING OUT. WHEN I RAN POINTS I WOULD ALWAYS PUT THEM ON THE VERY LARGEST GAP WORKABLE, THAT WAY THEY WEAR INTO TOLERANCE INSTEAD OF OUT. BEST REGARDS, MARLIN.
Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×