Finally got 9193 powered up with electricity. All great other than the power windows that have not been moved for 18 yrs.

I've seen post on the sector gears but can't figure out how to do a search on the new format.

The left side sound like the gears are not aligned / meshed correctly. No backlash maybe and not moving well. Looking with a mirror and flashlight it looks like a tooth may be missing from the motor. Parts source ?

The right side is frozen so I'm pulling the panel to clean, lube and look.

Last, is there a way to turn off the dome light ? Stays on until I disconnect the bat.

Also the wiper operation seems to be slow and slower. Is that the way they are ?

I hate to say this but I am not too impressed with the quality of work on this car. Seems like the factory rushed it and put it together with whatever they could scrounge up. No matter because it's a blast to work on.

All I need is the fuel hose coupling (tank to filler) before I fire the beast up. Should be this week.

The new format is quirky but cool. Well done !


Original Post

...Just take the Bulb OUT! And Don't Break the Lens (impossible to find) and Don't Burn Your Fingers! The Original Plastic Gear is  probably Split/Broken. Bronze replacement gears are available, But you'll have to Hunt for Them...Actually there are 5 Gears on Ebay, at this moment! Just search 'bronze pantera window gear'. That is, it turns out, You need one...or two.   MJ

well several questions ..and do not give up, it is Italian work out of the 70teess.

1) window motors
    - read the tech notes, there is a replacement model for think Ford Windstar motors, much better. Count the teeth as they differ think you need 11 vs 14 or so.  All out and replace not expensive . This  takes the ugly and AMP sucking stuff out..hence issues with the consol switches etc..

2) Dome light, well there should be a switch within the dome light. Issue as MarlinJack pointed out the old type bulb kills the plastic liens as it gets tooo hot. Replace by LED light, and CLEAN the switch mechanism..

3) Wipers: yes they freeze up as the grease dries out. There is info on the forum on tech notes. In short: open below fender the cover (pass side), loosen screws of motor fixture , take motor out INCL the long steal  cable which supplies the wipers. You might need to take the wiper arms off (use a small block of wood as lever then pull them up and out). All needs to be cleaned with new grease. Worst case you have to open the 2 vents covers (fiddle a decent cable through the slits and pull the whole stuff up). Then you can access the gear for the wipers (nasty, only for small wrists). Then you are goood..


fire it is a wooow..


The stock window lift mechanism is made by Ducellier of France and you have three: both side windows and the headlight raise/lower arrangement up behind the radiator. It's common for the big nylon gear inside the Ducellier gearbox to shrink and split, jamming things up. If the gear has not yet split, it soon will! The rest of the gearbox is cast zinc or stainless steel and never wears. If the gear isn't yet split, the factory grease has turned to a brick and causes much drag. Clean everything and replace all 3 gears! Getting the gearbox out of the doors will take awhile if you have never done it, but it CAN be done. Difficult, messy but no cost except for bronze gears. For illustrated instructions,  try

I renewed the broken plastic gear with brass and found pair of Fiat Punto (2 door model) window motors, the motor shaft is 8mm same as the duccalier, not too difficult to fabricate them in and they work well. But I must say that the noise from the Duccalier gearbox still remains, just to remind you that its "French"

One of the spacers for the gear box fell out. I suspect that it was assembled like that because I found it in the door and it looked as though it had been there a long time. All three gear box attach bolts were loose allowing the box to move throwing it out of alignment with the large sector gear. Cleaned, lubricated and reassembled so it now works great.

FYI to CA Cars with tinted windows: I took the window in to have the tinting replaced and was informed that mine was now illegal in California and that the cops were starting to enforce the new law. Rear windows are fine but you have to be able to see through the passenger, driver and windshield. There was a guy in the shop at the same time as me who was having his removed be caused he'd been stopped by the police and warned two times.

When  I rode motorcycles I could never make eye contact with drivers of tinted window cars. You never knew if they saw you or not because of the tinting. Probably a good thing for safety.

On to the passengers window that won't move at all.

This window regulator thing was a challenge . Thought I had it but no.   What really made a difference was getting the the correct shim thickness on the outer cat whiskers . The clearance between window and whiskers changes as the widow moves and front to rear ( loose in the front while tight in the rear).   Takes a few tries to get it right which requires glass removal. If you take the time you can get it to a point where the weight of the glass has little effect on the regulator operation.  Also spent time shimming the regulator to door structure so the door frame would not flex during window operation. A big help is to get someone to operate the window while you watch everything move. The slide has to be shimmed to clear the door and latch link. Again it takes time.

Also, the spade connectors used on this car (9193) are total junk. I have found several loose and or partially broken. If you try and squeeze them for a secure fit they break so I now just replace them with a AMP spade . Makes a difference when the drive motor gets the amps needed to do the job. 

Last, you can spend a lot of money on contact cleaners which is a waste. In forty years the absolute best I've found is WD40. Hands down the stuff works so I use it everywhere.  It's magic on rheostats, switches and contacts . Works so well that CA. will probably ban it.

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