I use the Mc Leod clutch with the mc leod threw out bearing.

It works for 2000 miles fine , but now it slips . So I want to try a organic clutch disc instead the Mc Leod 260531 because of my aluminum flywhel .

Wich clutch discs do you run ?

My 2nd pantera need also a new clutch disc. It have the original clutch installed.

Do you have a part number for me ?

Thanks and have a nice day !

Original Post

2000 miles is not very much, is it a three finger Mcleod or diaphragm style? Is the throwout bearing an adjustable one? What HP and Torque are you running?

Peter, the type of disc you're running isn't your problem. I agree with Julian; 2,000 miles is not enough to wear out a clutch disc, if everything else is correct. All things being equal, an organic disc would likely just wear out sooner than what you have now. I'd also suspect a throwout bearing problem. Have you pulled the trans yet? If not, when you do, the problem should show itself. 

Thanks for your help. I had some oil issues from the Intake manifold , so the clutch gets some oil on it.  Also I think, the metal insert from the mc leod flywheel is to hard . Maybe both componets du not fit togehter. 

I do not know the HP from my car , but the best time from 0-100 km/h was 3.8sec. Normaly 4.2

1240kg weight plus 110 kg me plus 50kg gasoline . I guess its arround 520HP

Not bad for the old iron engine :-)  Thanks all for your help.

260131 Mc Leod  also fitt on the OEM Clutch ?

Like I said before, pull the trans and your problem will most likely be obvious. That being said, if you haven't already, fix your oil leak first !!! 

...I'am Getting This Straight! You know there is Oil Getting onto the Clutch Disc, and You are Still Wondering Why the Clutch Slips?? Once a Clutch STARTS to Slip...There is NO 'Coming-Back' from it. Fix the Oil Leak and Install a All-New Clutch. To 'Save' the Flywheel...You may be able to 'Burn' the Oil out of the Steel 'Contact' Ring with a Torch, Or have it RE-Ground. I've been there before, but it was a ALL-Steel Flywheel.

...A Tip, this is also a Good Reason why one should NEVER 'PACK' a Ball PILOT Bearing with Grease!! The Grease gets Hot, Melts and the Centrifugal Force throws and runs it all over the Flywheel, Disc and Pressure Plate. BOOM! The Clutch Slips Right-Now...Forever! This Only takes a Little-Bit of LUBRICANT!! 

Listen and understand Now, or do the Job Twice!

I Always run the McCloud 3-Finger P. Plate, Street/Competition Disc, and the 'Flat' Faced Throw-Out Bearing...and The 'MJ' Oilite Bronze Pilot Bearing.


P.S. ...The McCloud 3-Fingers of the Pressure Plate DO Have the Counter-Weights! I have Never had a Problem with Interference to the Bellhousing, and there has been NO Difficulty with the Clutch Release and Shifting gears at High RPM, where the Weights Add to the 'Holding/Grip' Pressure. But, NO Amount of Pressure will Overcome the LOSE of Friction.

Good-Luck with It! 

Last edited by marlinjack

Further to what Marlin wrote; I believe the steel friction surface in McLeod aluminum flywheels can be replaced. Call McLeod with your part #. 

...I would like to add...I have probably Replaced near a Dozen Clutches in my 68 Years on this Planet, for My cars and those of Others. I learned or was Taught a few tips. Clutch Components must be handled Delicately. The Disc Friction Material is Sensitive to Contamination. I have made a 'Study' of 'Slipping Clutches'. Most of them, Mine. 

1. Never touch the 'DISC' with the Fingers! You pick the Disc up by poking a finger through the Splined Hub, or grasping the Hub, itself. As Little as a 'Greasy' Finger print, WILL cause the Disc to Wear-In UNevenly, this, in time results in a Clutch that Shudders upon Engagement (Releasing the Clutch Pedal).

2. The 'Friction Contact Surface' of the Flywheel And the Pressure Plate MUST be Cleaned of All Manufacturing Oil using Alcohol. DO NOTHING to the DISC, Don't Touch It !!

3. Do NOT Pack the Pilot Bearing Or Bearing Pocket with any Kind of grease. This was explained previously.

4. A Tool That Aligns the Splines of the Disc to the Pilot Bearing, when Installing the Pressure Plate, Over it...Is NOT Needed. Just Install the Plate over disc, Snug the Bolts Up. loose enough, and position both hands, Thumb and fingers to 4 Points Around the Circumference of the  DISC and Adjust it For 'Equal-Distance' around the Circumference of the Pressure Plate....Tighten, then Torque the 6 Bolts. You may use NO locktite or BLUE Locktite on the Bolt Threads. Never RED Locktite, you would need to use the Heat of a torch to Loosen RED.

5. The NEW Clutch Assembly, more likely, was NOT Balanced with ALL of the 'Rotating Assembly', Expect a Vibration to Result! This Vibration Will be Viewed in the 'Rearview Mirror'. IF the Clutch Pressure Plate WAS balanced with the Flywheel, the Technician would have Stamped a 'Witness Mark', usually a 'A' on both the Flywheel and P. Plate, be sure these are Aligned.





Last edited by marlinjack
gt4peter posted:

the oil leak was fixed in the first 2 miles , thanks . After that I cleaned the clutch and it works for a while. 

...I have to ask....How did You 'Clean' the Clutch? and Did You Ever Touch the Disc...At All? Point being...Oil gets on the Flywheel, by Heat and use (Slippage) the Oil penitrates into the 'Pores' of the Steel. You 'Clean' the Flywheel Surface, put it back into Service and as soon as it's used the Oil BOILS out of the Pores, BOOM! Slipping Clutch! Did You Re-Surface the Steel Surface? As the Man Suggested, you may Replace the Steel Ring in the Aluminum Flywheel. In Short, Wiping the Surface of the Flywheel with Alcohol WILL NOT, Repeat NOT BRING BACK YOUR CLUTCH!! 

THAT is why I suggested, if You cannot get a regrind done, or do NOT wish to remove the Flywheel from the Engine...taking a 'Oxy/Acetylene' Torch and SKILLFULLY BURN any Oil OUT of the Steel Surfaces of both the Flywheel AND the Pressure Plate. Control the Heat so as Not to Over-Heat and Warp the part. You would see the Oil burn off as, what else, Smoke. This does Not take a Long time to do. I am the Witness! It worked for Me!!


Last edited by marlinjack

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