"re-built" radiator...........

Ron

something is wrong with the baffle inside the right hand tank.

Its is repairable, but the right hand tank needs to be removed to see whats up inside.

-G

Thanks George,
I have received some photos (thanks again, Mike) of the correct tank baffles and I will use them to find out how many more $$ would correct it.
I'm also pretty sure the p o will do a return/refund if necessary........

PanTTera;
I'm assuming (?)the pictures you received are the pictures of the TSB bulletin outlining the procedure of a horizontal vs the original vertical baffle. It sounds as if the horizontal baffle was not snugly fit as outlined in the TSB and leakage is permitting water flow between inlet/outlet. As a benchmark, I just had my condensor and radiator (with TSB modification performed) boiled, pressure tested and ready for install for just under $500.00. I'm in a Kansas City suburb, and your price may vary considerably, but I'm going for an updated original restore and wanted to keep the original look. May regret later and be looking for replacements for either or both once I get everything together.

Even better.......It's a shot of the old vertical baffle below (hence the insert wire test) and the new horizontal baffle above.
I'm beginning to suspect that when re-cored, this radiator's baffle was compromised or eliminated.
Before I spend $500 repairing this one or the stocker that's in the car now, I'll get a new Hall unit with it's bonus included new thermoswitches!..........

PanTTERA: great shot! I'll be stealing that for later articles!

For a simple check on which baffle you have without rad disassembly, the shop method used in the '70s was to stick a welding rod (or piece of coathanger) into the upper bleed hole after removing the fitting. If the wire went in about 2-1/2", you had the late 'fixed' baffle. If it only went in about an inch or so, you had the early baffle that contributed to overheating. In PanTTeras photo, the upper bleed boss is clearly seen in upper rt of tank and the wire-penetration distance makes visual sense.

I'll credit that photo to Mike Drew, as we have been figuring this radiator thing out via e-mails/photos for a couple of weeks now.

One item to remember. The original vertical baffle has both temp switches in the leaving radiator tank but after changing to a horizontal baffle you now have one switch in the leaving water tank and one in the entering water tank. If you are using a stock thermostat the entering water temperature will be above the switch set-point so that fan will run continuously once the engine is at operating temperature. The easy fix is to wire both relays to the switch in the leaving water tank, thus both fans operate together.

strange, from a "heat exchanger" point of view the one with the vertical baffle is better as it keeps the water/air in counterflow. With the horizontal baffle there's only cross flow.
With counterflow there's better mean temperature difference , a direct factor in the thermal capacity....
Velocitys are the same, the water takes 1/2 of the tubes, ofcourse bleeding in important, where air is , is no heat transfer !

sorry , yes, i make heat exchangers for 30 years now