The car is back together. The vibration is gone and the car revs smoothly from idle to 5500RPM redline as smooth as glass. Next up is to fit the stub axles back to the gearbox, test everything else, and change the oil. Oil will be run through a painter's sieve to make sure we get to examine any particulates that come out. If all goes well, it'll be at dyno tomorrow morning and likely back home before the sun goes down.
pouring the oil thru a paint filter is not going to tell you much, get a oil filter cutter and open up the filter
If the car has a low end power problem, you need to find out what the specs are on the camshaft. It could be too big for what you are trying to do with the car. Have you checked the total ignition timing? The shop that installed and set up the engine my have the total ignition timing retarded too far. What power valve is in this carb? If your idle vacuum is about 7.0 and you have a 10.5 power valve in the carb, the power valve will be dumping fuel into the engine all the time. An engine with a big camshaft will generally have low idle vacuum. Install a vacuum gauge on the engine and see what your idle vacuum is.
Well, dyno runs came back with the car putting out 435HP and 450ft./lbs. of torque at the rear wheels. Idle AFR is at 14.3 and 12.5 at WOT. Maximum torque at 4300RPM.
How does it run on the street?
Can you post the chart?
What cam timing are you running?
Does it still smell rich? I'm not expert but those AFR numbers don't seem like they're too rich.
ok since the dyno run seem good did they tune to make any changes? Why did the car seem lazy to you prior to the dyno run? Those are great numbers and the car should seem pretty fast on the street. How does it drive????
It’s likely it was sluggish because I was kind of scared to take it up through the RPM band with that vibration and I’m running mechanical secondaries. I haven’t driven it on the street yet but will post back the results here when I do.
Well I drove it for about an hour today and there were no major problems to speak of. The car wants to GO once you start opening up the secondaries. I didn't dig into it too hard because the engine is still new and I'm not terribly interested in kicking the crap out of the car anyway. I drove it down to the gas station and then down to his shop and back home.
Oil pressure remains steady at just about 30psi at idle and hits around 60-65psi when you're digging into it. It's really hot outside today but the car holds a steady 190 degrees, even at a standstill in traffic, with the AC on. The AC blows really cold.
A few minor gripes I have with the car that I'll address after I move are that the power steering assist seems to be not working when the engine is running, but it does work when the engine is off and the key is in the "on" position. I'm using Scott (SACC) power assist kit on the car.
Another gripe is that the car does want to diesel a bit on shutoff. I believe this may be a combination of it being hot outside and likely that the timing might be a bit off as it only lasts for a moment. I'm told the car started out with an initial 9 degrees of timing.