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Team hi,
in the mid of full over haul of my VIN # 4907.
Question on Electric and Wireing..

Working on all the nice top charts from the Tech web page, most stuff fits perfectly.
Doing editing and mods as applies...(new light relais and relocation to front, new Fan relais and relocation to front etc.

Question:
1) There is this chart on Starter Interlocks etc.
Do not understand, as the Black Box Device (right hand on picture blow) is not clear to me. Is this some US regulation stuff from the "old Days"? My car does not have it..
Can please some explain what this is, and what die "Rough" functionality of the Black box is please?

2) I would like to have a START button....with 2 modes..
2.1) in PASSIVE run mode...provides Cranking but NO IGNITION
2.2) still in PASSIVE RUN mode switch ON provide START & IGNITION
2.3) keep State ACTIVE RUN after Engine started. ...
(I assume this is NOT what die Black Box does..). Does anyone have a wiring diagram with this Function...NO ELECTONIC please only Relais ...want to avoid the modern stuff ..smile, spend 30 years in computer sience..!!!
Matthias

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My Pantera, chassis 6018 (built July 1973), is technically a 1974 Pantera. It is equipped with this device. Its a seat belt interlock, preventing the car from starting if the driver and passenger are not wearing the seatbelts.

American cars beginning with 1972 models (assembled after July 1, 1971) had strange safety and emissions equipment like these interlocks. The device in 6018 is bypassed (wire 9 landed on wire 8 terminal). I don't think about it. I have not worried about the interlock or fuses 9, 11, and 12 ... I just hope no problems arise in that area. If your Pantera is not equipped with this circuit you are lucky.

-G
Last edited by George P
quote:
Originally posted by George P:
My Pantera, chassis 6018 (built July 1973), is technically a 1974 Pantera. It is equipped with this device. Its a seat belt interlock, preventing the car from starting if the driver and passenger are not wearing the seatbelts.

American cars beginning with 1972 models (assembled after July 1, 1971) had strange safety and emissions equipment like these interlocks. The device in 6018 is bypassed (wire 9 landed on wire 8 terminal). I don't think about it. I have not worried about the interlock or fuses 9, 11, and 12 ... I just hope no problems arise in that area. If your Pantera is not equipped with this circuit you are lucky.

-G


To add to what you just said, mine is 4066. It was built in Sept 72 and titled as a 73. It is an L. It was sold new in Missouri.

Mine shows no evidence of ever having it, but I'm not the original owner.

According to the alphabetical code in the serial number, mine is a '72. Maybe that's the difference? Some are referring to it as a 72-1/2?

I think Ford played with the model years on these cars? No one wanted last years models except in California where some if not all 74s sold there were titled as 73s.

When were the starter delays put in the front trunk?
Last edited by George P
do NOT want to interfere on your expert skills.......
Vin THPNMS04907 = November 1972...according books..
Non of the Overwrite wire stuff on...
NO evidence on the Device...all cabeling it correct. Small Missmatch on some of the wireing for Wipers and Spy motors and cigaret lighter..

Have UNFORTUNATE NO IDEA where this US based car came from, is a European GTS as indication shows...need to find this out anyways..

Matthias
I think that the letter M indicates the calendar year the car was made in?
My car is the same thing, M. M is for 1972.

If it was 1973, it would be N.

1974 must be O unless it is not used because of the confusion between the number zero and the letter O?



A European delivery car would not necessarily have all of the US required equipment. Just what was needed for the country that the car was going to be delivered and registered in?

My car has the a/c relays, buzzers, flashers, located inside of the trap door on the drivers foot box BUT has the bracket installed in the passenger footbox that was used to install the same items used in the pre-L cars.

So there are running updates in them from earliest to latest.

I'm not sure if all of the change over points are registered or registered accurately?
Last edited by panteradoug
Mat, there are four (4) different factory wiring diagrams known, and its been found over decades that NONE perfectly match any Pantera. So don't draw conclusions from different wire colors or even missing wires. What most owners do is obtain a wiring diagram with a published date close to the build date of their machines, then annotate the diagram as we find discrepancies to our car. Ford/DeTomaso made numerous running changes during serial production and for various reasons, not all changes wound up on all the cars they should have. I know this is confusing, but it's also Italian....
Team Tx for feedback! Got the message...
the whole wire loom is under REBUILD. Using the base drawings (late) from the forum tech tips and modify them as applies. Correct the Color schema is a mess..Also lots of wiring is by far too thick/diameter..adhering here to the Industry standards, most is 1.5 or 2.5 mm*2.
1) adding app 90 yards of new wire (as some wiring has pretty hard PVC, hence inflexible)
2) add to the Headligh System relais in the front and fuses
3) add as per details vom George the Fan wiring, including relais and fuses (the Fans draw app 8- 10 Amps each/Fluidine pull Fans)
4) all wiring on Dash and console go on connectors
5) seat belt signal light taken out, buzzer out
6) all window motor stuff via 2 relais each, and Fuses go in the fuse block as got spares due to move of Fan and headlights to front
7) Door motor overhaul, looks like new now, runs well even with 5 Volts supply...
8) window motors overhaul
..etc..is Winter over here and Body still in paint shop, engine needs final assembly..

Matthias
I've not got very far into the wiring (not my forte'), but rumor says that the front loom at least may have come from a Jag saloon, as there's about 10 feet of extra wire with extra connectors, folded up in a tape loom under the cross-brace that supports the hood hinges, all of which reduces voltage to the radiator fans. The amount of air moved by DC motor driven fans is logarithmic so a 4vDC drop reduces the fan speed by about 25%.

I know of a CA engineer that got disgusted with the stock wiring so he ripped it all out of a running '74 to substitute aerospace connectors and better quality insulation. 10 yrs later the car was sold as non-running,'needing only some rewiring completed....'. This is a massive job. Good luck.
Bosswrench HI
Tx for warning! will drive it CAREFULLY. And is not a full replace, is more a one-to-one modernization, just shortening and modifying as applies the wires, optimizing the fuse block.

YES the Front Fans are terribly connected; but this will be new with DIRECT supply from the Batterie for Batt+ and Batt -, Fuse up front.
Keep you posted..
Matthias

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