Starting Problems

Check the grounds. I had a similar problem. Moved the ground strap to one of the starter bolts.

If you have a battery cut off switch, that can make a poorer ground. And you need ground straps from engine to chassis. Had the issue on Longchamp, all gone now.

Extensively redone engines like a typical stroker usually have significantly higher compression, which makes a stock starter- even the 'heavy-duty' version- inadequate when hot. IMHO, like a fully-baffled, higher capacity oil pan, a high-torque starter should be a mandatory mod for ALL modified engines. Also makes working around the starter & headers simpler.

I had hot start problems when I had this cut switch that is sold everywhere

But with this version which looks to have a significantly larger contact area, no starting problems. This one also comes with the green wheel, the point is that the construction gives a larger contact area

Thank you all. I have the "green" version. I think I will swap that out and also add another ground strap at the starter. If that does not solve it I will step up to a higher torque starter

Thank you all. A second ground strap did the trick. I love the car....I love it more when it starts.

thanks for the followup. Good to confirm the starter grounding strap is benifical.

On battery disconnects, I didn't like the design of any of the offerings, so I used a red-knob assembly, bored out the solid horizontal wire-connect area for a hole big & deep enough to inset the bare wires from the battery cable, and soldered the two together with a propane torch. That gave a large enough electrical connection area to allow my gear-drive starter to pull full starting current, and still disconnect the battery when the car is resting. Hand-tight on the knob is sufficient, too.

We all may be having trouble passing sufficient current through the gold-ish plating or whatever the far-east makers use to make the assemblies look pretty. Drilling a new hole exposes clean metal for the solder.

I don't like the green knob one because it uses the threads as a current path and cross threading was way too easy.

"...You pay Peanuts, You end up hiring a Bunch of Monkeys!"

OR Wasting Your Money on Junk, that in Time, will Only Fail! Usually, in a Short Time.

This is What Your looking for.
Made in USA by 'Taylor', I believe. Designed to Handle 200 Amps. Another Theft Deterrent!

Do I need to Explain WHY We Switch the GROUND Cable, and NOT the POSITIVE Cable??

Last, To Anyone here, whom has had trouble with their Battery, I recommend a Trickle Charger. You'll think a Miracle has Happened! Especially in the Summer Heat in a Garage. Heat Drains and Destroys Batteries. And the worst thing You can do, is Leave a Battery Discharged. OR, Not Charging, Not Charged for any Period of Time. The Trickle Charger will Also, keep the Plates Clean, from 'Sulfating', and Make the Battery Last Longer, and Help Protect it from a 'Premature' Death.

And, What we all Love, when you go to start that Pantera, after a few Weeks/Months of Rest, You'll receive That Wonderful 'ZING' To Life! I have measured the Volts after Disconnecting the Charger, the Maintained Voltage Is Actually Higher than the Alternator can Leave in the Battery, after a Long Highway Drive! No Worries about Over-Charging, the Charger shuts down when the Battery is Optimum, and Maintains It.

2

Your Right!! "Loose Wires, Cause Fires!"

I have the Schematic in My Head. The Red Light (Top Center) Proves the System is Live.

Notice the 'Dropped' Battery, I read a Quote Once, in a 'CarCraft' Magazine..."A lowered Center of Gravity is a Joy Forever!!". I'll Add, One that You will Realize on Your First Hard-Driven Curve! Think...a 40 Pound Battery, Lowered 12 Inches. I would Cut the Floor Again, In an 'Eye-Blink'!!