quote:
Originally posted by No Quarter:
My electronic scale was not easy to deal with, but most results were 45kg for 1 inch, meaning 100lbs/in, right? Occasionally it showed 55kg, meaning moren than 115lbs/in.

Well, now at least we have some comparrisons to other shock strengths, but what is good and what is bad I don't know. I wish shocks would come with pressure ratings. And on top of this, Byars indicated to me that pressure on shocks should be almost nill when the decklid is closed, which is why they like the DeTomaso vs any of the aftermarket which don't do that. This is the reason I left my stiff DeTomaso 18126A on the car rather than use the aftermarket I bought. Only thing I hope is that Pantera vendors back up their material if something occurs with a part they sell. So if your hood or roof happens to bend, then Pantera vendors should cover the repair cost. However, if you went with an aftermarket shock on your own with guessing game strategy, such as PepBoys or whatever and then something happens, the bill should be yours for repairing any damage. All I know is what I have been told, and that is no DeTomaso 18126A has ever caused any problems.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by DOES 200:
Well, here is the first measurement on a brand, if anyone wants to add more brands. I measured one strut using my 4 post lift as a press with a scale under it.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb

I did not put the Mighty-Lift on my car yet. I still have the Detomaso sold by many on my car, below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A



To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.
Good list of pressures. FWIW, at least one vendor told me that deck struts over 110 lbs when fully extended will bend the roof over time, and even then are only for winged cars. He won't sell the heavy ones, instead recommending a strut lock on one side to hold up really heavy decklids. For fiberglas decklids, one lighter strut may be better than two really light struts as they don't closely match pressures anyway. Be very sure the extended lengths are correct as well; too long and the decklid edge will touch the roof. Too short and your forehead will find the decklid edge or the corners! Finally, the various years have different decklid attach areas with different size bolts and bushings, and most of these aftermarket struts have replaceable rod ends that unscrew.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
... below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A

To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.


I have the Wilkenson struts on my cat. Over time, I have noticed that the driver side strut has (as Jack warns) begun to lift my decklid to the point where it touches the roof line. Not good.

So, I removed the strut and (less scientifically) used all my weight (I'm 180 lbs) to BARELY compress the strut. This now has me looking at alternatives. The strut remains on my work bench (and will stay there) ...
Now I am concerned. A few years ago I replaced both botom shock brackets. One is a little lower. So I am thinking of replacing both again and doing a better alignment. Any tips on where to buy the brackets. The last ones were $35 ea from Bobby Byers. Nice stainless brackets,no complaints. This tread is getting more interesting each day. If the Wilkinson shocks are too stiff, what should we use for a wingless deck?
Dave
It took a while doing it all by myself with the hood supported through rope to the rafters, but I was able to put the Mighty-Lift D95004 on the car. They were taller so I really had to watch for over extending the hood. I kept a slim cardboard/paper piece between the hinge and decklid body and kept testing to ensure I could still move the cardboard. Near the end of it all the cardboard got a little snug to tugg on it, so that shows I was damn close with the decklid to the hige. Now I can lift my hood with one hand, exactly the right pressure in my opinion. Autozone, $14.50 each. There is probably nothing wrong with the Detomaso ones I had on there, but these are spot on for me.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb
quote:
Originally posted by bdud:
Put on a pair of Autozone D95004's I bought today and my decklid will not stay open. So it is possibly either the Dodge Shadow with spoiler strut or the DeTomaso 18126A's to the rescue.
Any one else have that problem with the D95004's?

Bdud, those D95004's should work, or maybe you are in really cold country as all these struts act a little weaker when colder. Why don't you rig up a little pressure test on them if you get them off the car. Just rig one strut between a jack, bathroom scale and something solid to push against, and watch the scale when you begin to jack it and the strut begins to compress. Did the strut have a blue label on it with numbers? I am in upstate NY for the week so I can't look at my label at the moment and can't recall the numbers on it (I ordered D95004's from Autozone, but I am not sure if the strut blue label on them actually had the D95004 number on it or not).
Do you guys use some sort of lubricant on your decklid shocks? I noticed mine just got quite stiff when closing "and" when also opening the decklid. Usually with these D95004 brand it took one finger on the hood to guide up and down with the hood. A couple weeks ago I applied some grease and after a few up and down of the hood, it was back to normal easy slide. But now two weeks later it was kind of stiff again, ready for more grease, in which it slid better again after applying more grease and working the hood. Maybe WD40 or something else would be better, or last longer?
quote:
Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
...Use Teflon Grease! Does Not Freeze, Won't Dry-Out! WD-40 will EAT the Rubber Seals, and will evaporate after awhile!...

Thanks. Looks like I need the teflon stuff. I used Sta-Lube moly grease, but it doens't seem to last very long.

Sta-Lube: hydroxy lithium base plus moly disulfide, graphite and extreme pressure additives. The best multi-purpose grease to use for automotive and industrial applications.
http://www.crcindustries.com/a...l.aspx?PN=SL3141&S=N

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I got to this post late so I don't know if anyone still needs a good shock system but i put on a rear decklid shock kit that works great. It lifts my decklid with the wing without any problem and it relieves a huge amount of pressure on the body. I bought it from Mark Johnson [mjohnson@ipsco.org]. He makes alot of after market parts for the Pantera and his work is the best.

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