FWIW and purely by accident, I found that the rod ends on many of the small replacement gas struts UNSCREW. So if you're having trouble with only that end fitting , it may be possible to change just the ends- maybe by contacting the mfgr. Found this out 'cause Hall used to sell gas struts with a blade end rather than a rod end (which took special brackets), and the blade end fell off in shipment....
Just installed the Autozone D95004. Got the wife to lift the deck (after I had put painter's tape on its edge to protect it). Made some spacers/bushings from bronze air fittings cut to 3/4" lengths that fit perfectly.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
Well, here is the first measurement on a brand, if anyone wants to add more brands. I measured one strut using my 4 post lift as a press with a scale under it.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb

I did not put the Mighty-Lift on my car yet. I still have the Detomaso sold by many on my car, below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A


To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.


My Autozone Mighty-lift 95004 seem to have given out, as now they hardly hold the hood up. I was thinking of putting Detomaso 18126A back on the car, so I decided to check the strut pressure again using the pressure from my car lift on the strut with bathroom scale under. As I lowered the lift and compressed the strut, the 120 lb to 160 lb as shown above was still valid. So if no one is experiencing issues with these shocks, then that pressure may be ok. I always hear everyone hype how these shocks release pressure when compressed, well that sure doesn't seem true on my testing. Maybe I am not testing pressure properly? I just lower my lift onto the shock and watch the bathroom scale numbers as I slowly lower the lift, what the hey!
quote:
Originally posted by TomCat:
quote:
Autozone Mighty-lift 95004

My Autozone Mighty-lift 95004 were week this winter (after only about 6 months)...but seem to be satisfactory as the weather/engine heats up.

It has warmed up here in CA and when running the car warm they do stay up just "almost", so I may just get another pair. Still debating the Detomaso 18126A, but I recall when on my car the pressure was even much greater when the car was run and engine bay hot (so with a hot engine bay, those pressure numbers shown above are probably much higher).
Page 3, August 29, 2008:
I contacted Wilkinson. Bill explined the NAPA shocks create the most pressure in the closed position. He said they have seen numerous deck lids damaged (bent) and deck lid hinges and pins warped with these shocks due the pressure exerted by the NAPA (Belcamp & Omni shocks). The shock (NAPA style)pressure is maxed in the closed position, exerting a constant amount of pressure on the deck lid.

Bill advised their replacemnt shock has the correct pressure and it is maxed in the open position. He also said he it will not make any difference on the NAPA shocks to have the piston up or down, same pressure.

Bill said a new deck lid is $5,400.00 !

I do not see any reason to screw around trying to save $45-50 and risk damage. I don't believe he would set any sales records for a pair of shocks costing about $90.00. I felt his advice was sincere. His also comes with the hardware.

We all like to save money but the possible consequences do not seem to be worth the risk.

They work great & i don't worry about bending the deck.

IndyDave
I'll put in my $.02 for the IPSCO setup. Preferable geometry. When the decklid is closed, there is no vertical vector, so it won't heave your decklid out of shape. Mine has a slight heave on the left side from previous struts. When you hit the lock button, it lifts on its own. Pricier, but worth it.

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quote:
Originally posted by IndyDave:
Page 3, August 29, 2008:
I contacted Wilkinson. Bill explined the NAPA shocks create the most pressure in the closed position. He said they have seen numerous deck lids damaged (bent) and deck lid hinges and pins warped with these shocks due the pressure exerted by the NAPA (Belcamp & Omni shocks). The shock (NAPA style)pressure is maxed in the closed position, exerting a constant amount of pressure on the deck lid.

Bill advised their replacemnt shock has the correct pressure and it is maxed in the open position. He also said he it will not make any difference on the NAPA shocks to have the piston up or down, same pressure.

Bill said a new deck lid is $5,400.00 !

I do not see any reason to screw around trying to save $45-50 and risk damage. I don't believe he would set any sales records for a pair of shocks costing about $90.00. I felt his advice was sincere. His also comes with the hardware.

We all like to save money but the possible consequences do not seem to be worth the risk.

They work great & i don't worry about bending the deck.

IndyDave


IndyDave. I am not sure what the BS is with the less pressure in the closed position on those Detomaso shocks. I put one of those shocks on a press with a scale and the pressure is as indicated below (160 compressed), which is why I hesitate to use them. And these pressure are with cool shocks, you warm them up in a hot engine bay and it is much more. I hear 110 lb max is what it will take to not bend the decklid on shocks over time. If I buy them I wonder if they would guarantee decklid replacement, as that is where the rubber meets the road. Don't take my word for it, anyone buying them just put it on a press with a scale before you put it on your car and read what it says as you compress them.

Here are the pressure measurements I got on the Detomaso 18126A measureing one shock:
1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.

I may just end up going with a broom stick and be done with it.
I too just installed the IPSCO Rear Deck Lid Shock Replacement Kit. Very nice kit / works great. Dave2811 is right, geometry on stock setup just seems wrong, no matter what shock you use it pushes up on your deck lid. IPSCO kit will work great for 180's too. Looks to be about $200 for the kit -

Main page
http://www.ipsco.org/

Rear Deck Lid Shock Replacement Kit
http://www.ipsco.org/Pantera%2...id%20Shock%20Kit.htm
The IPSCO deck lid shock replacement kit is great. The instructions are straight forward. Even comes with a drill bit stop to prevent drilling through your deck lid. I wanted my mounts polished. They were kind enough to take off the anodizing and polish them for me. The only difficult part is fishing the backing plate up through the deck lid, oh, and deciding to drill holes in your car!
I am obviously no deck lid shock expert, but if installing the IPSCO, I would just be very careful with the deck lid proximity to the roof line when installing because from what I saw on Dave's yellow car at C&C is that these shocks tend to elevate the deck lid extension more than the other struts. See the following photos showing the hood getting closer to vertical with those shocks. Just be careful with it, and you may need to back up your deck lid a little. Nice car Dave!

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Kind of interesting, Brad's blue car with the IPSCO set up seems to have lower hood extension than Dave's yellow car. Maybe they offer choices of different shock lengths. But anyway I don't feel like drilling into my engine bay, so I may still just go with broom stick...would be a good conversation item at car shows.

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quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
Kind of interesting, Brad's blue car with the IPSCO set up seems to have lower hood extension than Dave's yellow car. Maybe they offer choices of different shock lengths. .....

I guess it depends on how closely you measure per the instructions. Placement of the anchor points will have a huge effect on the geometry.

Yea, you have to watch the pinch point between the decklid and the body when installing the kit.

Edit: I reviewed the installation instructions, and there seems to be a conflict on the placement of the upper anchor points. One page says 25" to the center of the ball, and one page says 25" to the first hole. I believe I placed mine at the latter, so that would move the ball further fwd, and raise the lid higher.

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