quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
quote:
Originally posted by pantera chris:
quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Hello
anybody to identify my exhaust please ?
regards
Philippe

C-302 B heads


Maybe, but I don't think so? I have a set of those here.

This is what the mounting flange looks like.
you are right Doug, but I was basing my conclusion on the mounting holes, it is obvious they leaked. I think they may have started as 4V.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I don't recognize the application of those headers? What are they for?


Those are F355 headers. They replicated the factory headers in 321 s/s. They then modified the factory clamshell that covers these headers since the primary pipes that they used were slightly bigger than OEM.
quote:
Originally posted by pantera chris:
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
quote:
Originally posted by pantera chris:
quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Hello
anybody to identify my exhaust please ?
regards
Philippe

C-302 B heads


Maybe, but I don't think so? I have a set of those here.

This is what the mounting flange looks like.
you are right Doug, but I was basing my conclusion on the mounting holes, it is obvious they leaked. I think they may have started as 4V.


VERY LITTLE bolts up to those heads. Headers would not without adapeter plates, but why bother? In a Pantera, just get the right headers.

Stainless headers are absolutely beautiful new but I like the ceramic coated steel better.

Just take some Windex and wipe them down. If you want to go crazy, buff them with Mothers wheel polish.

The ceramic maybe will get a little dull if you are running lean and super heating them but even then they wind up looking like "mill polish" stainless.
Hi,
i`m planning to wrap my Hall headers (as in PanteraDoug`s post) with basalt fibre to reduce heat in my engine bay.
Especcially the pipe coming very close to the oil filter concerns me a bit.
Does anyone have experience, how much and what material to use?
Best regards,
Philipp
quote:
Originally posted by Rocky:
Do you ever drive the car in the rain?

I have heard the heat-wraps can cbsirb water and cause corrosion...


...I Second this. I have been told by more than one Experienced Source, that 'Wrapping' Header Tubes....Yes, Keeps Some Heat from concentrating in the Engine Bay, 'It' also keeps the Header, itself, from 'Cooling', Therefore Accelerating Disintegration of the Steel. Plus, It Looks Like Crap, In My Opinion. So Go For It!

If Your worried about the Oil Filter taking Heat, change to a Remote Filter System. Also think about the Fuel System winding around/near the Header.
On my race car exhaust I only used wrap where there were no other options. Likely the exhaust temps are higher with a race engine but it was very evident that the wrapped parts deteriorated much quicker than the exposed pipe. I built “air blades” or simple shields where possible which actually worked better anyway. For street use coated helps a lot.

Mike
I have read through this whole thread and kudos to you guys who fab up your own 180 degree headers.

I think I am going to stick with the under the car approach. The improved sound would be the major advantage for me on the 180 degree route, but I really like how easy it is to get to the engine, plugs, etc. I don't think I want to give that up for sound.

Dear Dick,

            Ah, yes, the infamous Pantera drone.  In your case, a Mangusta drone?  Please check this tech article from the Great Lakes Panteras website tech session.   I found the approach to be unique.  I followed up with Gerry and found about a handful of Pantera owners in their circle that had done the mod and they noted less "boom" and , in one case, a dyno proven increase in power.   If Gerry's theory that the boom is due to a sonic Helmholtz effect is correct, then if it occurs in a Pantera, it should also occur in a Mangusta.   There being so few Mangustas, I haven't heard of the boom phenomenon with them, but I bet it is there.

           http://www.greatlakespantera.c...r%20Modification.pdf

 

               Warmest regards, Chuck Engles

 

 

 

Chuck,I have brand new Pantera S mufflers now, the only one ever imported into the US I was told.I still get it. Tried opening the old ones and adding packing, quieted the car at speed but no change in the drone.
I have a friend who worked at Chrysler in the carburetion and exhaust lab and he says he can find it.  He is in Florida nowThanks for the advice.Dick Ruzzin

Dear Dick,

          If I understand Gerry Romack's Helmholtz Effect theory, then the packing would not have changed the symmetry of the "acoustic chambers" of the mufflers.  The symmetry with the equal pulsing of both exhausts creates at a certain rpm/frequency of pulses the reasonance that reinforces the other.  That range of rpms that generates the reinforcing waves creates bigger waves which result in the notorious boom.

          The Romack fix alters the acoustic chamber so that they are no longer symmetric and that, apparently, disrupts the re-inforcing  sound waves and reduces the boom.  The asymmetric mufflers have new resonance at non-complimentary rpms and therefore do not reinforce each other to produce the boom.

           In Gerry's case he did pack the muffler with steel wool packing at the same time as he did the mod.  He reports that his exhaust sound was very much reduced.  Then he took it on a chassis dyno and  unintentionally blew out the  packing.  The exhaust level did increase somewhat, but the Pantera boom remained greatly reduced.   Also, if I recall correctly, that dyno test resulted in a measured *increase* in HP over an earlier test with the normal muffler configuration.

           I intend to modify my GTS mufflers this year.

                     Warmest regards,  Chuck Engles

Add Reply

Likes (0)
Post
×
×
×
×