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Mad I was thinking she was running hot, and I had her out today and sure enough her temp needle went clear over to 110. My shpinter tightened like it always does when that happens and we head for home. I turn on the heater cause that always helps and cool air is coming out. But the temp drops, so it must have worked right? Well on the way home I hit the dome light switch instead of the heater switch, by mistake, and guess what, the temp went down! Eeker
WTF??? I turned it off and the temp went back up. DOH!! The bitch has been lieng to me!! All these years of...
Detom: "C'mon baby, let's get it on!"
Pantera: "Not tonight honey, I am a little too hot."
Yeah, she is a schemeing lazy old bitch, and if I didn't lover her so much I would leave her flat.
DAMN!!! Red Face
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It is definetly an electrical thing. I can turn on about any switch and drop my engine temp. Actualy the car is running cool as a cucumber. It doesn't even tink after driving it. You know how a car goes, tink, tink, tink, after you shut it off and it has gotten hot??? Well she don't even do that. I bet she is at operating temp and that is all the hotter she is getting.
I've had the same symptoms a 1970s UK car (Lucas Wiring) when the instrument voltage stabilizer failed.

This was a small metal unit that looked just like a flasher unit (and worked on the same bimetal strip principle) See the picture.

I don't have a Pantera wiring diagram to hand - but I assume it must have one of these somewhere in the instrument wiring.

Detom, does the temperature appear to drop if the engine speed drops below the point where the alternator stops charging?

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Detom, does the temperature appear to drop if the engine speed drops below the point where the alternator stops charging?

No that doesn't seem to do it, it is only when I turn on another accesory, and then it it just drops to what I am thinking is a true reading. I am betting that a resistor is going out, and that failure mode is the least common. Usualy when a resistor goes out it goes straight to an open circuit, which would be a zero reading at all times. I have seen this a few times in my career as an engineer where the resistor will only partialy fail, but it is rare as hens teeth.
I don't know if I really want to tear into this problem or not. I can tell for certain it isn't really overheating. It may just be something I will live with until I restore the car at which time I am going all new harness anyway. It just goes to re-enforce my feelings about the accuracy of 30+ year old gauges. They are mearly friendly suggestions and not true indicators. Big Grin
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