Throttle cable wisdom?

Pantera throttle cables seem to come in two versions. I am only familiar with the version that incorporates a return spring near the carburetor.

PIMotorsports is selling a cable that does not have the built-in return spring, both cable ends having finally threaded studs.

Does anyone have experience or info on benefits or drawbacks to the PIM no-spring version?

Original Post
It requires addition of a return spring from the rear of the manifold in a pull action rather than the push action of the oem style. You can use the readily available double return springs for safety.
Hi Team,

well had an issue with it as well and still have a pedal mechanics which is too stiff. The NEW trottle cable came with this "big spring", so I thought this is the MUST BE -OK I changed the intake to Edelbrok incl. milling etc. hence I assumed it was my fault that the pedal mechanics is not really working as supposed to, as fixture was closer to carb..
I did "lenghten the big string (in picture) as was too stiff and provided a too short moving way. Then it was to weak!! So added the old style spring pair in a self build fixtures, this is better but not good. I figured the lever of the carburetor can move app. 2 " (5 cm) quite a bit), so was hard to adjust overall. If I can get rit of the "big spring" i can add more to the "original set up.

Any thought?? still on a steep learning curve on my nice Panter.!



Photos (1)
The oem spring looks quite compressed already in the photo, so you may be getting coil bind at full throttle. Perhaps shorten the spring?

To get a more progressive smoother throttle you can add length to the carb linkage so it travels through a larger arc.

The recommendation for dual springs for track use is a safety initiative, but here you have 3 springs, the two additional are overkill IMO, I would remove one.

LF-TP 2511:
While not completely familiar with the PI throttle cable, from what you are describing for the non incorporated spring on the throttle cable, as long as the cable is in a sheath and is held by some manifold bracket whereas it operates freely, the return spring would be mounted towards the rear of the manifold with a "pulling" action to close the carburetor.

I just installed the throttle cable as depicted in the picture yesterday. From what I see in the picture, I agree with Joules in that the spring nearest the bracket at the front of the manifold appears to be somewhat compressed. Where the throttle cable is connected to the carburetor and to the end of the spring, I have two inches of adjustment on a small threaded rod. I did work with the positioning of the bracket holding the spring at the front of the manifold to assure myself that I was not binding the cable, and that the spring was not compressed.
Team Hi, tx for comments, just crawled into it just is always awesome to fire the NEW Panter up!

the whole set up is new, as all overhauled, just did 30 miles on my nice Panter.

Indication was:
1) the throttle cable /the lever at the carb did not get back to its end position.
2) the original "big sping" was already coil binding at the start due to probably the new Edel B. intake with different fixture position.

fixes & assumption
1) the carb was sitting for 3 years (during restoration) hence I assume its joint(s) are a bit stiff not going to end status easily
hence I added extra sting power to pull back...even TWO IN PARALLEL !!
2) The Edel B. has different location for the throttle cable fixture, hence I did SHORTEN THE BIG spring and LENGTHENED it (by pulling it out), well lost strength to it doing it

today I did adjust the ignition so the idle got better and well after heating the carb up now the 5th time the "carb joints" behave better in respect of getting back to base location. Idle now at 800. Nice. (see other thread I just opened)

I will take your advice to remove step by step the "EXTRA" force to get back to standard. . Shortening the big spring further and use a single spring for BACK UP safety only...

keep you posted.


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