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Made two improvments. First is that I switched the instrument light dimmer (which I never use) with the AC switch (yes, AC works and no need to put in on max, so this switch has a purpose). So instead of bothering with leaning over, it's now where I can reach it. Fortunately all AC wires were long enough, including the sensor (it's an electronic switch). The wires to the instrument light dimmer were just shorted, alwasy had it on max anyway.
Sorry for picture...
Sorry for picture...
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Second fix. The flap deciding if the air comes out the top or middle vents, that lever had almost no effect. And I couldn't adjust it to solve it. I know this is not working-as-designed, but I drilled another hole in the lever, getting more travel and now I can actually control if air comes to windshield (up to 70%) or into car (up to 90%).
If you drill this hole, make sure you make the metal you drill into stationary, and if you like me had the bottom of the drill flipping up to crack the windshield if the drill got stuck, put a thick cloth in between.
If you drill this hole, make sure you make the metal you drill into stationary, and if you like me had the bottom of the drill flipping up to crack the windshield if the drill got stuck, put a thick cloth in between.
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And now for a question. I've taken everything off the removed dash to get it ready for upholster guy. But I can't get the inside bezels out, speedo/tach holes, they seem to be superglued in there. Any suggestions? Can they be bought if I ruin the ones I have?
Wilkinson is showing them in his catalog but I'd check first to make sure that he does have them.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=13030A
When I redid my 2 pod dash I did need to glue the rings in place. I would think that is common place?
Good luck.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=13030A
When I redid my 2 pod dash I did need to glue the rings in place. I would think that is common place?
Good luck.
I've got even more of my interior out. I'll take a look at mine. I have a quandry about redoing my dash.
Dash is now in the hands of upholstery guy...
Here's a pic another change I did, wanted to slow down low fan speed. A/C is cold enough to not use too much fan, and wife complained about whirlwind in the cabin. So I put another resistor in series with the orig one.
Here's a pic another change I did, wanted to slow down low fan speed. A/C is cold enough to not use too much fan, and wife complained about whirlwind in the cabin. So I put another resistor in series with the orig one.
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And now to a question. Having the center console and vertical plate moved a bit, and rerouting some wires, a few wires fell off the 4 rocker switches. Tried to put them back on in the right place, and then wanted to test. All worked except headlights didn't go up and down. I was pretty sure it was due to what I just did, but when I found out the relay clicked and eventually after removing the two wires on the motor that there was power when headlights on and ignition on, I concluded the fault had by chance happened now.
The headlights have always gone up and down, except once where wiggling a bit on the two relay wires fixed it. Today that didn't help, not even shorting the relay wires. And the motor got really hot. Could it be an internal short? Can the motor be taken apart/repaired/replaced? Any tips? Too busy on something else right now to just start trial and error...
The headlights have always gone up and down, except once where wiggling a bit on the two relay wires fixed it. Today that didn't help, not even shorting the relay wires. And the motor got really hot. Could it be an internal short? Can the motor be taken apart/repaired/replaced? Any tips? Too busy on something else right now to just start trial and error...
if motor is getting hot, i'd think there is a load on it, so is trying to still come down when it is already closed or trying to open when fully open.id disconect both micro switches to stop power going to motor then try and short ot the two wires to either make rise or drop, front micro in from down in rear.
other option disconect motor from lifting cog to see if it runs with no pressure on it.
think fisrt option would be best as you have instant controll over the power to the micro switch as you can just touch both wires together, if its going to work it will be instant.
good luck
cj
other option disconect motor from lifting cog to see if it runs with no pressure on it.
think fisrt option would be best as you have instant controll over the power to the micro switch as you can just touch both wires together, if its going to work it will be instant.
good luck
cj
About the headlights not going up and down: I took the mechanism out today. Not easy with radiator still in car, too lazy to remove radiator, spent time inventing tools to use where there was little space. Tested the motor, no action, tested with an ohm-meter, could get 0 ohms when wiggling wires. Hhmm. Checked the price of a new motor, almost $200, so I took it apart, also the gear mechanism, cleaned and greased everything, massaged the coals, reisolated the wires. Now it works.
That's fixing cars at its best:
See problem
Diagnose
Remove
Take apart
Fix
Assemble
Reinstall
Works!
We all know that's not always the way it goes.
One miracle during the fix: I had to remove top front micro switch. 4mm bolts both broke, all the way in, nothing visible. But on the other side, they still pointed 3mm out of the permanently attached nuts. So I thought why not try to get them screwed out that way with a set of pliers. Almost didn't try, the likelihood it would be a success seemed infinitesimal, I was ready to start drilling and welding. But I got both out.
A tip. Adjust the stops in so that when you reinstall the mechanism the motor doesn't try to pull the pods too far in either direction, that could crack paint.
That's fixing cars at its best:
See problem
Diagnose
Remove
Take apart
Fix
Assemble
Reinstall
Works!
We all know that's not always the way it goes.
One miracle during the fix: I had to remove top front micro switch. 4mm bolts both broke, all the way in, nothing visible. But on the other side, they still pointed 3mm out of the permanently attached nuts. So I thought why not try to get them screwed out that way with a set of pliers. Almost didn't try, the likelihood it would be a success seemed infinitesimal, I was ready to start drilling and welding. But I got both out.
A tip. Adjust the stops in so that when you reinstall the mechanism the motor doesn't try to pull the pods too far in either direction, that could crack paint.
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MIkael, haven't looked at PanteraPlace's directions and its too late for you, but the whole headlight motor/drive comes out the bottom, thru the left wheelwell with the tire removed. And I always pull and throw away that funky bakelite grommet thats on the rear of the motor. The headlight motor must run ungrounded, and if the grommet cracks or soaks up water, it shorts the wire and the headlights won't come up with no obvious reason. I use an in-line female-to-female spade connector and a tie-wrap, as the grommet and it's connector only keeps the motor wire from vibrating & cracking. And so does a tie-wrap.
Dash is now reupholstered, looks good, not leather but some plastic that looks a lot like the old stuff. Have put it in again, not an easy job, patience required. Today I tested all the electric stuff, and I have one problem. The hazard flasher, I had a few wires off to get it out, and I had a few wires off to get it back in. I of course think that I put them back on correctly every time, but maybe not. The problem is that the light in the switch doesn't turn off when turning off the ignition, that isn't right.
Does anybody have a view to where all the wires go that I can check against? Normal flasher works fine
Does anybody have a view to where all the wires go that I can check against? Normal flasher works fine
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Super, I'll try as soon as the Pantera is back in the main bay...
Mikael,
The link that Doug posted is for an early car, and the switch in your pic appears to be the later switch (with the resistor on the back of the switch). All of the replacement switches are the later type.
You will probably find a yellow/black wire that has two female spade connectors. One is connected to terminal #49, and the other one is connected to terminal #58d. If this is the case, then remove the yellow/black wire from terminal #58d. That wire is not used on the early ('71) cars when using the replacement switch.
I'll PM you with an article that I wrote for the POCA Newsletter last year.
John
The link that Doug posted is for an early car, and the switch in your pic appears to be the later switch (with the resistor on the back of the switch). All of the replacement switches are the later type.
You will probably find a yellow/black wire that has two female spade connectors. One is connected to terminal #49, and the other one is connected to terminal #58d. If this is the case, then remove the yellow/black wire from terminal #58d. That wire is not used on the early ('71) cars when using the replacement switch.
I'll PM you with an article that I wrote for the POCA Newsletter last year.
John