valley pan install question

The rubber gaskets go on the block and the other gaskets go on the heads if my memory is correct from last year. The turkey tray is a little difficult to fit between the heads but it will make it. I never had to trim one and used a good silicone sealant on the corners.

I am a firm believer in the use of this turkey tray because every time that I didn't use it, I had an oil leak where the rail gaskets are.

Yup, those rubber gaskets go under the ends.
They also love to squeeze out and split when you tighten up the inlet manifold bolts.

There was a previous thread this week about this. You need to glue those gaskets in or use sealant instead.

If you do what I did, which is to put them on according to the instructions that came with the gasket kit. They'll probably squeeze out and split.

Here is a link to my saga on installing the intake http://www.panteraplace.com/page131.htm Highly recommend that you DO NOT use the end seals that come with the pan and make cork replacements. I didn’t take that advice from a friend and got to do it twice.

Mike

I buy the silicone gasket material (RTV) in the big tube. I use a caulking gun to put put a bead in place of the entire end seals.
It cures as an adhesive caulking compound and is never going to ooze out or permit leaks from the corners.
The cork eventually dries, shrinks and cracks.
The neoprene needs to be caulked to seal.
Why bother. Just caulk the whole thing.

Mike,

It sounds like I should use the cork that was meant for the topside of the pan on the bottom side...or just use RTV.

thanx,

John

You need to become an artist or as the DI says an ar-tiest!
You can slop that stuff up pretty bad if you rush it.
The fumes aren't even a good high either.

I have done this when I changed heads from OC to CC and installed the Hall "Show and Go" package.

The intake manifold gaskets go against the heads. Use the blue tack provided by the Fel-Pro kit. I used the neoprene end seals together with the silicone dabs in the corners of the ends. Metal turkey tray goes on top (no trimming required). Then torque down the intake manifold (I used an Edelbrock dual plane that came with the Hall kit) on top of the metal gasket. Toque to spec. - No problems. I did not have splitting neoprene seals etc. the intake manifold was in place for 12 years.

Now my engine is tired so I am changing the whole thing out.

"andriyko"

The parts store did not carry the Feplro kit, they had ROL...

John

John

I have seen other valley pan gaskets marketed. When I have taken a close look on the metal gaskets it invariably says it is manufactured by Fel-pro.

Before installing my valley pan gasket, I called Fel-pro. They recommend installing the 2-piece intake gasket first then the metal valley pan gasket. According to them this ensures a better seal.

Anyway, you should not have to trim the metal gasket.

Bohdan

I would throw the valley pan in the garbage and install gaskets and Silicone the rails.

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
I would throw the valley pan in the garbage and install gaskets and Silicone the rails.

That’s exactly what I did the first time and it didn’t work for beans. And I’m a pretty decent wrench turner and have replace intakes on a few other engines!

Mike

your talking about the valley pan below the intake ??? what dosent work ?? Maybe to put the stock CI intake back on but Iknow for sure FELPRO makes intake gaskets and Red silicone worked for every Ford BB and SM I ever built or fixed and thats more then I can count or remember. LOL

Ron

quote:

intake gaskets and Red silicone worked for every Ford BB and SM I ever built

Okay, can you provide a proper technique for this?

From what I've learned, and I'm doing this for 2511 this weekend, I should:

use fel pro perma-torque gaskets, the ones with the blue silicone around the ports. Make sure they are installed front end to the front, blue rings to the manifold. Gasketcinch on the head side to hold them in place and fill slight imperfections, right?

Check end rail gap with intake in place, to determine thickness of silicone sealant bead. Right so far?

Apply one bead, or two if thickness requires, to end rail and about a 1/2" up on the head, right again?

Now, do you let the silicone bead set up for zero minutes, three or four, or several hours?

Should the valley pan and manifold mating surface be dimpled with a center punch to provide better grip for the silicone? I know this old trick was often recommended for the cork/rubber gaksets.

After first engine warm-up and cool down, remove carb and retorque the manifold bolts, right?

thanks for your advice,

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by www.PanteraPlace.com:

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
I would throw the valley pan in the garbage and install gaskets and Silicone the rails.

That’s exactly what I did the first time and it didn’t work for beans. And I’m a pretty decent wrench turner and have replace intakes on a few other engines!

Mike

I also learned the hard way that the turkey pan is needed on these engines. Some people get by without using it, but I had oil leaks on the front and back of the intake manifold when I installed an after market gasket set. The rubber end gaskets that come with the factory type tray also have pins that go into the holes in the engine block. This keeps the gaskets from slipping out of place and about the only place that I use silicone, is on the four corners of the end gaskets.

My other question is, why have hot oil on the bottom of the intake manifold if there is a factory tray that could be installed under it to prevent this problem? The turkey tray can be a little difficult to install, but I think it is well worth the effort.

What I found is that if I didn’t use the pan I needed to block off the cross over ports to keep from getting carbon forming under the intake and then later dropping off and getting in the oiling system. Even though I live in a hot area the engine did not run for beans until ran for ten minutes or more because the intake was so cold. It was a major pain.

The pan was pretty easy to install when I used the cork end gaskets and no leaks after a number of years of use.

Mike

quote:

to keep from getting carbon forming under the intake

Has anyone ever seen this? Or just heard about it?

As I posted earlier, I just pulled the manifold off my 28K mile engine, no turkey tray, no block off plates, and not a sign of ANY scorched oil anywhere - none.

So is the burnt oil an old wives tale or what???

Larry

I buy 4V gasket kit .. intake gaskets only ... I spray the head side with copper coat adhesive .. then stick them to the heads in the proper configuration.... then I center punch the rails about every 1/2 " and then bead it with a nice heavy bead of silicone and bead the intake also .... have the intake ready and slap her on... then quickly bolt here down tight obviously tightening in a spiral sequence and torquing to spec. then with my finger wipe the silicone in front and back.

Always works .. cant say I'm a expert on the theory behind the turkey pan. Maybe George can shed some light on this one .. but I think the old 352/360 truck motors used them also .. the cork and rubber gaskest push out and using silicone only helps it slide out. I remeber those kits coming with a little tube of high tack adhesive ???

My 2 cents.