Vapour Lock - ?

My car also didn't want to start after running and getting hot, and if you search the forums, you'll find there are probably a dozen possible causes (hot starter motor not able to crank, vapour lock as you've mentioned, timing problems etc.). With my car, it was too much fuel getting through and flooding the engine when I shut it off hot (the root problem is the needle and seats in the carb are too large or just worn out), so I'd have to hold the pedal down and crank until she fired up.

While trying to diagnose the problem, we took off the air filter, started the car and saw the fuel pouring through the carb.

Before going to the trouble of changing the fuel pump though, check the top of the engine, make sure the carb is doing it's job and not flooding the engine - when you shut it off hot, pop off the air cleaner and look to see if fuel is still pouring through the carb we originally thought my problem was the fuel boiling. Also, check your plugs for fouling like she's running rich, then check your timing - in particular the total advance on the distributor - when I got mine to 34 degrees along with new plugs, things improved significantly in terms of hot-starting ... it ultimately wasn't everything she needed, but it sure went a long way.

That's the extend of my experience with a hot re-start problem, others will chime in on some of the other things to check.

If you do go for a new fuel pump it will be easy enough to source for the Cleveland - most auto parts stores should carry it or be able to get it quickly. A mechanical pump should be fine unless you're planning to modify the engine for serious HP, in which case electric with a regulator is something to consider.

BTW, welcome to the forum, where in Canada are you located, there may be someone nearby that can help with the diagnosis.

I chased a similiar problem for two years and it turned out to be a defective ignition condensor in the distributor. If your still running a points setup, this could be the problem.

Hey guys, appreciate the input, a few of those things I would never had thought about and will need to run them down one by one, sure is a pain to stop for gas and then not get it to fire back up! I'll let you know the progress
5754 - I'm in Toronto

thanks

Update - appears to be a vapour lock issue in the fuel line. I had it idling in the driveway for some while and then shut it down and no start. I opened the float bowl screw and nothing, not a drop.
Now I can't seem to get anything to work and the battery seems to have excess current draw - may be due to the electrics getting soaked because the damn thing overheated while idling and blew the overpressure cap open on the rad tank. I didn't have the fans on (dahhh) but I didn't expect that issue, it was just idling and it wasn't hot outside either.
New problem to add to the list once I get it to fire up again

Not interested in telling us where you're located?

YellowShoe - Will is west of Toronto, I'm East and there are a few others on the forum that are scattered about the fringes of the city. Are you closer to one side or the other? You can use Private Messaging to let either Will and/or I know where you are and maybe one or both of us can come out to give you a hand with the diagnosis.

BTW, I'm wondering if a phenolic spacer under the carb and getting the fuel line up off the intake (if it's resting on it or the valve cover) might prevent the fuel from boiling ... plus checking the total advance on the distributor.

As for fuel pumps, If you need to change it and want to stay with a mechanical pump, they're readily available, the part number on mine is 41449, the Holley number is 12-854, and NAPA's pump for the 351C is 60007.

quote:

I'm in Toronto

Will, he's local to you

hey yellowshoe, Come and meet ( or if you are shy, see ) 20 other Pantera owners in Kingston labour day weekend

Denis

I’ve never seen or heard of a Pantera getting vapor lock. Is it really a possibility?

Mike

quote:

I'm in Toronto

I got that but it's a big city.
W

There is a spacer and the fuel lines are actually wrapped and up off the manifold (Ross did a pretty good job with that stuff) but it's still real hot under there which maybe is why there is a boil off in the float bowls and no fuel after it's been running. Not sure how this relates to the overheat mess the other night.
Tried to start it today and now it seems like I have an electrical issue, maybe starter solenoid as the crank speed is brutally slow even with a boost or a good battery
I'm supposed to be in Kingston but not sure the cat will be.
I'm in Thornhill. I tried to reply to a message from Will but it's been kicked back by the system.
Need to find sometime to look at this but in the middle of a house reno and I'm the 'everything' guy

If it cranks slow are you sure now it isn't flooded with a hydraulic lock? Pull a plug and smell it for gas, if flooded take tehm all out and crank-over to flush, clean or replace plugs, start car ond soon after replace oil.

Are you sure you have enough fule pressure and flow? no air leaks?

Just went tru all that.

Denis

Update - changed the plugs, starter, solenoid and for good measure the voltage regulator s well and it fires right up, no issues now. There was no tranny to chassis ground strap. I haven't added one but probably should.
Not sure I've solved the fuel issue yet as no time to take it for a spin. If I add a bleed screw at the carb intake and retention reservoir (so I don't burn the joint down) would I be able to bleed the vapour lock out if I get one?
Appreciate all the help and input guys