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If your Pantera came from the US, it has a smaller rear sway bar - this was as-designed by Ford to induce more understeer and make the car "safer" for American drivers accustomed to lumbering barges that plowed through turns with a great deal of understeer. Ford was afraid these drivers would wind up in trouble real quickly in a car that might tend to oversteer. A 1 inch sway bar in the rear corrects the understeer tendency and makes the car's handling more crisp in the turns with much less understeer.

Now adding a larger front sway bar will just counter or negate the effects of the larger rear sway bar. A 1 inch front bar is not necessary. Actually, one PCNC member took his car to a suspension tuner who found that optimum handling was achieved when the front sway bar was removed altogether!

Note that all of the above is for a narrow body car. Wide body cars may be a different story altogether. And, intended use will significantly impact what's best as well.
Last edited by garth66
interesting reading,
I have had my Pantera for some time, It had a lot of the Hall Pantera upgrades, one is the hollow pipes hall used for sway bars,
The car handled well,
During a run on Ortega Hwy, chasing down a canyon runner bike, " I got him to pull over ", I broke the front bar, the car actually handled better
I replaced the sway bars with 1" bars from Pantera Performance, have spun the car to many times since,?
I will remove front and see how it goes.
Mark
Look out for the stock, welded on retaining studs if you do this. They are of marginal strength stock and will break off without too much effort.
Make sure that you use the sphere-ball end mounts on the bars.
Your camber settings will need to change. I don't know exactly where to but I think closer to zero to keep the tire treads flatter in the turns.
It seems simple but the dial in is going to take some time to get it right.

The hollow bars are to save weight but many of them will break. If you break any of these components while driving it you will get snap steer and spin the car. Alone on the track is one thing but on the street on an on or off ramp you will have a three car pileup.

Sounds interesting but I don't want to be the guinea pig.
Broken anti-sway bars often occur right at the point where people mistakenly weld anti-travel retaining rings on the bars. That weld is a dotted line that says 'break here'. If you must, a tack-weld or tack-braze minimizes heat damage to the high strength steel. I make my own bars of 0.120-wall 4130 steel tubing, bend them cold and use split clamp-rings to keep the bar from moving sideways. Hollow bars are slightly weaker in action than solid bars of the same OD. A 1" solid rear bar often overwhelms the rear bar mounts or the rear subframe, so 1" solid bar action may turn out worse than the optional 7/8" GTS solid bar, due to frame flex.

And as Garth says, use sphere-ball mounts on the outer ends of both. Adding poly bushings to the outside of front or rear bars causes a bind that either overstresses the bar or the attach strap on the rear a-arm; one or the other WILL eventually break. With sphere-balls, you can actually feel the bar action!

FWIW, I use a hollow 1" rear bar and a hollow 3/4" front bar with 245-50 x 15" fronts (8" Campys) and 295-50 rear tires on 10" Campys. Handles fine on street or track and the bars are less than half the wt of solid bars.

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