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I'm not thrilled with having rivets there but welding them can be a challenge.  It is probably best to take the tail pipes off the car to avoid welding upside down.  The weld will tarnish the chrome near it and that area will need to be wire brushed and painted.  If it is well done then the weld will be camouflaged.  If not well done it will make the rivets look attractive.

You pretty much have to look for the rivets to know they are there.

The original Hall tips, which I have, are Stainless. So if yours are stainless I doubt that a chrome one would match. There's also a possibility that the tip angle would not be the same. Also, I attached mine with a few dabs of silicone sealer.... NOT. So I thought this am from memory.

I just went down and checked (one tip was off the muffler). I silicon glued 3 spacers on both the front and back ends an inch or so short of the end. The spacers (about 1" x 3/4") were some heavy fiberglass weave I must have had laying around. It was somewhat compressible so made a snug fit as I slid it on. On the outside end I put a silicon bead all the way around to fill the gap and keep it from possibly slipping. I did nothing to the inside end but you could certainly seal that easily if the muffler is off the car but you might want to leave a small vent. This has worked fine for 40 or so years!

My guess is that you could use almost anything as a spacer that is good to 600 deg or better (the temp rating of the silicon). So wood would work. Also there is a high temp JB Weld putty that could work "Able to withstand 450 degrees continuously and up to 500 degrees intermittently" which probably means that it still has strength at those temps and probably is good to well over 600. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/umi-8297

Richard To ski or not to ski, that is the question!

Last edited by rbarkley671

Maybe just three “tacks” with your welder would hold them securely. 

Might be easier to take the tailpipes off and have them done, or do them off the car.  

With most Pantera exhaust systems, there are only the three bolts attaching the tailpipe to the header flange, and then there is the one hanger at the back of the tailpipe. 

If you pulled the tailpipe, you would not have to worry about your electronics being damaged by welding, and your welder would tell you if you need more tacks, or he likely could do the whole seam.

If they might be of help, I have two exhaust doughnuts I could send you, depending on your exhaust configuration.

 

TOP TIP:   To get your tail pipes aligned precisely, hang a long straight edge from your bumper with bailing wire. Ensure the straight edge is leveled and aligned with your bumper, and use the straightedge to set the height and rotation of your tail pipes.

There is a lot of adjustment available in the tailpipe hangar, and rotating the tube at the header flange.

Rocky

 

 

 

 

Last edited by rocky

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