Gonna swap out my radiator in the near future, has anybody used waterless coolant, or have any
knowledge of it?
Seems too good to be true,no pressure no corrosion and no overheating.
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I have read that the engine will run a lot hotter because of the higher boiling temperature of the waterless coolant. That's were the lower pressure come is.
Jake
Jake
I believe it's also dangerous by an accident or leak , it's burning.
Simon
Simon
I read their FAQ, and generally, it seems like a bunch of hype to sell a product that costs close to $100 for 5 Litres (free shipping, though).
Cars have been just fine running on Ethylene Glycol Coolant for nearly 100 Years.
You might be better off to just change your coolant yearly, and ensure your cooling system is in good condition. Their FAQ did not mention that the boiling temperature of water increases under pressure (and your Pantera cooling system should run at a 13 or 16 psi pressure).
At 10 PSI over ambient, water boils at 234 F. (114 Deg C). My engine runs at 190 Deg. F - I have 44 Deg F of margin (and I was being conservative on the operating pressure of the system).
Just my opinion, but I can't afford $500 for coolant to fill my radiator.
YMMV (or your wallet).
Rocky
Cars have been just fine running on Ethylene Glycol Coolant for nearly 100 Years.
You might be better off to just change your coolant yearly, and ensure your cooling system is in good condition. Their FAQ did not mention that the boiling temperature of water increases under pressure (and your Pantera cooling system should run at a 13 or 16 psi pressure).
At 10 PSI over ambient, water boils at 234 F. (114 Deg C). My engine runs at 190 Deg. F - I have 44 Deg F of margin (and I was being conservative on the operating pressure of the system).
Just my opinion, but I can't afford $500 for coolant to fill my radiator.
YMMV (or your wallet).
Rocky
TP, know that I have changed absolutely EVERYTHING possible in the Pantera cooling system including the cylinder heads, and the ONLY thing that changed the running engine temp was a bigger aluminum radiator. My temp drop was 12 degrees F. So if you're trying to lower engine temps on long runs, changing the rad is the right thing to do. If you're just dealing with a leaky unit, the alloy rad is also 1/3 the weight and holds more water than stock.
With alloy rads, you will need to check your local water quality- some areas in the U.S are so corrosive, a piece of scrap aluminum left in a glass overnight will attack aluminum like it was acid! Most alloy rad-vendors include a bottle of No-rosion additive or something similar. There are other definitive tests you can do at home, too.
With alloy rads, you will need to check your local water quality- some areas in the U.S are so corrosive, a piece of scrap aluminum left in a glass overnight will attack aluminum like it was acid! Most alloy rad-vendors include a bottle of No-rosion additive or something similar. There are other definitive tests you can do at home, too.
We have used evans at the shop. It was used in a 620WHP 350Z. The coolant temps did not change (nor did we expect them to) however we could run a super low pressure cap alleviating stress on the cooling system. It also makes bleeding the cooling systems a lot easier especially on the modern cars with high temp thermostats as they wont boil before the t-stat opens. Corrosion resistance is a good benefit as well. I was debating putting it in my car as well when the time comes.
Didn't realise the cost of $500 seems a bit costly.
Was considering getting my original leaky rad rebuilt rather than replacing with a "cool" looking more efficient ally one after reading leakage problems on the ally.Water quality and the correct antifreeze should keep it tight.
Just one aside, you Stateside guys do know there are two I's in aluminium , don't ya'll??
Was considering getting my original leaky rad rebuilt rather than replacing with a "cool" looking more efficient ally one after reading leakage problems on the ally.Water quality and the correct antifreeze should keep it tight.
Just one aside, you Stateside guys do know there are two I's in aluminium , don't ya'll??
quote:
Just one aside, you Stateside guys do know there are two I's in aluminium , don't ya'll??
Spelling differences of Aluminum
The best coolant additive I have used is "Red Line " water wetter, It will give you max cooling from your water, and not keep you off the track, lubricates your pump and no rust.Another alternative is a oil cooler, this lowered my water temps by 10 to 20 degrees. When Corvette moved to synthetic oil on there production motors , they removed the oil cooler, due to higher operating temperatures of the synthetic..
quote:Originally posted by Tomato Panscourer:
Gonna swap out my radiator in the near future, has anybody used waterless coolant, or have any
knowledge of it?
Seems too good to be true,no pressure no corrosion and no overheating.
I have a GM V6 in my MGB. I initially ran Evans coolant. It actually has less cooling capacity then water. If you have adequate cooling capacity you will not notice a change because the temp is controlled by the thermostat; not the coolant.
However with a new tight engine it was not enough cooling capacity and I had to go back to water/antifreeze to gain enough cooling capacity.
Other draw backs were limited alternatives when you are on the road. You cannot just add water. If you do any work where you need to drain the coolant, you need to recover it because it is very expensive which also means less likelihood you are going to flush with new or fresh coolant.
My brother runs it in his Cobra which is a high performance big block. The advantage that he like is it is a zero pressure system which has helped with some cooling system issues.
The claim to fame for Evans is it helps with hot spots. In extreme engines, you can get a hot spot. While the coolant temp may be within range a spot in the head can grow hot enough to boil water and keep a vapor barrier. As the vapor barrier grows, the hot spot gets hotter and grows creating a real problem spot even though the coolant is within range. With Evans, it does not boil in this range and can eliminate the hot spot because you never get a vapor spot.
Gary
However with a new tight engine it was not enough cooling capacity and I had to go back to water/antifreeze to gain enough cooling capacity.
Other draw backs were limited alternatives when you are on the road. You cannot just add water. If you do any work where you need to drain the coolant, you need to recover it because it is very expensive which also means less likelihood you are going to flush with new or fresh coolant.
My brother runs it in his Cobra which is a high performance big block. The advantage that he like is it is a zero pressure system which has helped with some cooling system issues.
The claim to fame for Evans is it helps with hot spots. In extreme engines, you can get a hot spot. While the coolant temp may be within range a spot in the head can grow hot enough to boil water and keep a vapor barrier. As the vapor barrier grows, the hot spot gets hotter and grows creating a real problem spot even though the coolant is within range. With Evans, it does not boil in this range and can eliminate the hot spot because you never get a vapor spot.
Gary