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This was answering MarlinJacks question about the vacuum plumbing.

One MY CAR, each runner is plumbed to a common plenum. A vacuum plenum. This is how I did it. Other variations are possible.

You can't tune each cylinder for vacuum. Not practically anyway. You use the sync tool to balance (as closely as you can) the flow at idle.

Nate mentioned fuel pressure also. If it means anything to anyone, the factory Cobra "Team" cars running Webers used no fuel pressure regulator.

They were plumbed to a fuel plenum directly running from the fuel pump at 7 psi. I don't know if they were using the current glass ball valves liked used now. PROBABLY not but some of that is proprietary information that has been lost over the years.


The glass ball valves are also referred to as "the high pressure valves". They will let you run higher pressure safely and are needed to stop the carbs from flooding the intake when you shut the engine off and it is hot, peculating the fuel and overcoming the ability of the float to close the valves.

The heat tends to boil the fuel out of the bowls and it floods directly into the intake manifold.

If you were to try to start the car under that condition you would create a flaming volcano. Ask me how I know? Wink

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Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Kuester:
thanks for all the input, it's half the fun of trying to go it alone. I am getting closer, the heat of the header tubes gives me some fuel delivery information, however now I'm still running too rich which runs contrary to the basic tuning settings I found in various locations. Unscrewing the needle valves by 1+1/2 to 2 turns as a base setting appears way out.


You need to pull out the plugs and read them. They may be completely fouled on the cool tubes and that's the reason for the rich mixtures and cold tubes.

Don't try to get too scientific with these carbs. It just doesn't work.

It really isn't the carbs themselves, it's the IR manifold characteristics. They are not for novices or for people with little time.

Like I said, figure about 2 weeks, working day and night, with just breaks for your bodily functions. Pit stops we call them.

Also, don't tune them inside of the garage. You will never get the fuel fumes out. It will stick to everything like a skunk sprayed the place. Outside only.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

You need to pull out the plugs and read them. They may be completely fouled on the cool tubes and that's the reason for the rich mixtures and cold tubes.

Don't try to get too scientific with these carbs. It just doesn't work.

It really isn't the carbs themselves, it's the IR manifold characteristics. They are not for novices or for people with little time.

Like I said, figure about 2 weeks, working day and night, with just breaks for your bodily functions. Pit stops we call them.



I totally agree and if I'm certainly not an experienced man, I'm not quite a novice anymore, I've only tuned a few 4-cylinders engines over the past 40 years that did not work "too badly" , I do not say "good".
FWIW, when I was fooling with Weber carbs decades ago, I found that joining all the intake spuds together with nice hard AN lines produced zero total vacuum. Using one line to any intake and adding a 15" long RUBBER hose produced consistent enough vacuum to activate distributor vac. advance. Using a single hard line gave zero readings again- apparently the rubber damps the extreme vac/pressure pulses in the intakes.

Tuning is vital- most Weber system either produce 12 mpg and good power, or 16-20 mpg and no power. Getting the best of both requires much fiddling. Fuel pressure seems irrelevant to good running. Do NOT use ANY kind of foam air cleaners: Webers meter fuel into airflow going in both directions so the strong pulses produce a cloud of stand-off fuel-air above each carb throat. This soaks into foam air cleaners, then a cold-start backfire can catch the soaked foam on fire. ONE carb should have a Weber-built startup attachment in place of a choke.

Also, many Weber carbs have been sitting in storage for years or decades, which dries out gaskets, o-rings and seals even on carbs that have never has gasoline in them. So NOS carbs may leak profusely on start-up and need complete rebuilding. It's things like this that give Webers a bad name & try one's patience.
There isn't anyone that I know of that has comprehensive scientific data on the vacuum situation with a specific set up in the Pantera.

What we have is a independent runner manifold. It has no common plenum and it gets set up as such.

I think it is safe to speculate that it came to be for racing purposes and that it is doubtful that an engine generated vacuum source was a significant consideration.


When I got my first manifold from Gary Hall in about 1978, it had one port drilled and threaded into the #8 runner on the manifold.

As I remember, it was a 3/8npt port. When I asked Gary, he said, "oh yea, that's where you connect the vacuum hose for the power brakes. The vacuum from one runner is enough."

We all are stating our own experiences with this system. I as well as others have noticed that there seems to be noticeable differences in results and issues. I am not criticizing others experiences. I'm comparing notes, so to speak?


Halls solution didn't work for me. That first set up was in my 68 GT350 and if I tell you that I was walking the high wire without a net by myself, that is an understatement.

I plugged the thing and went on to making it run on the car.

That set up eventually got traded away when I went back to the original 302 in that car...sort of...but that's an entirely different story and not for now.


Webers can be an addiction. Maybe more accurately an infection like Malaria. You think you are over it, then out of nowhere, you get a reoccurrence?

Well, my way of dealing with that was to install them on my Pantera.


The difference was that no longer was I using the iron 4v heads, now I had these nice race car set up A3 aluminum heads. The fever was getting worse.

So back to Hall for a manifold. This time with no predrilled vacuum ports.



Yada, yada, yada. Fast forward. I need engine vacuum connections.

So here's the thing, not lots of room for intricate vacuum plumbing. Halls design didn't work. Wouldn't it be great to have a vacuum gauge in the car to add more info to exactly WTF was going on back there? Sure.


This is an IR manifold. Carbs are calibrated (tuned) to operate under IR conditions. Question: how large do the vacuum lines need to be from runner to runner BEFORE they become balance tubes and create a central plenum in the manifold?

Answer: no one knows.


Question: what happens if too large a tube system is installed?
Answer: you probably screwed up the entire physics of the design and will have no choice then to go back to where you started. This is 2300cfm of carbs. You can't use that much on a center plenum manifold.
At SOME UNKNOWN POINT connecting the runners together convert the manifold into a center plenum manifold. Who finances that experiment? You only get two weeks for vacation. Don't you want to go to the beach?


Question: what happens to the holes that you drilled into the manifold for the larger fittings?
Answer: weld them up or get another new manifold. They're only $900.



All I can say is that my vacuum tube system works for attaching a vacuum gauge. Works great.

Does it supply enough vacuum to work the brakes?
Answer: no.

Solution: rather then destroy the manifold, screw that idea and just go to a vacuum pump.
Answer: done. Pump is noisy but gets lost in the noise of the solid lifter cam and 180 headers. No one notices it.


Air cleaners: I'm not sure if even with a "Weber" cam, if it is safe to run any kind of an air filter over these volcanoes?

The picture I posted is of lets say "the pre-installation engineering study". Yea, that's it. That's what I'll call it. Wink


MPG: Well this is a little difficult to nail down scientifically. For one thing, it is as difficult to keep your foot out of the accelerator as it is for Dr.Strangelove to control his repatriated right hand.

In my experience, with a 140f/160a F5 with .70/1.20 idle and 42mm chokes (auxiliary venturi) expect about 17 mpg beating the thing like you stole it, about 22 on a long cruise like to a Shelby Convention about 15 hours away.

By comparison, the Holley 4179, 750cfm "double-pumper" is as rich at idle as the Webers are, and never got more then about 12. Mileage is relative to what you expect out of all the parameters.



ONE little detail that I absolutely stumbled across that is a big factor is that the fuel cloud at WOT "hovers" over the stock height stack.

IF you extend those stacks to 5" high, the vapor cloud stays within the stacks. The Pantera is one of the few cars that can be done on and still be within the "engine confines".


IF you look at period photos of any of the Grp4 factory cars, you will notice now (now that I told you what to look for) the stacks have been extended to about 5" high. Coincidence? Maybe? Sure. Everything is just coincidence right?

This is ONLY effective on the Pantera. It's the only car that has this room over the top of the manifold. The Mustangs don't.


This is what Inglese did on a Pantera Weber set up. He used rubber hoses. Small ones. I think this one has a vacuum plenum added to it in between the carbs in the back?

In my experience, not enough to work the brakes.

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Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by René #4406:
Yes, find 15 full availables days, it's something for retirees. Smiler


First time in '78 was about 6 weeks. Had to ship the jets in from Connecticut every other day.

I had a poster in the garage that I had made from an enlarged picture of Jim Inglese, and every time I would pull out a fouled spark plug I would throw it at the poster and just leave the plug there in a pile.
At my age I cant remember if I posted that my Webers are functioning great now. The forum's total advice indicated that patience and a little luck is required. I plugged all vacuum connections to start with. The brakes are being bolstered by strong but a noisy vacuum pump that gets drowned out by motor noise, and the distributor is set at a base 18 degrees with another 20 degrees of centrifugal advance for a total of 38. This appears to be fine for my needs. Power is awesome, and much better than the 650 Holly provided. Twenty five years ago I had a wilder cam installed to go along with roller rockers and higher compression pistons but unbelievably lost all the specs, so I was flying blind concerning jets and best emulsion tubes to use. I went through many combinations and must have gotten lucky. The car wants to idle best at 900 rpm, and idles reasonably lean. There is no lag when hitting it hard, and no problem smoking the 18/305 rear tires. Nothing looks as good as a set of 8 tubes rising up from the motor.

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Mine look like that as well including in my 347 Windsor.

Your plugs would indicate to me that the idle is way to heavy on your induction. The light side is about right.

This dual reading happens because one side is facing the intake valve, the other is facing the exhaust valve.


One thing that you will find as helpful is indexing the plugs. All plugs should read equal and the defining line should be right down the middle of the plug.


I define that as, the tip of the plug needs to point directly at the intake valve.

In order to do that you need to use shims under the plugs.


The racers that I know say this is MANDATORY to get the engine to operate properly and state that they have dyno proof of 15 to 20 hp differences between indexed and non-indexed plugs.


IF you are running Webers, try going to .60F/.80-.85-.90idle holders. The .70f are too heavy.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Mine look like that as well including in my 347 Windsor.

Your plugs would indicate to me that the idle is way to heavy on your induction. The light side is about right.

This dual reading happens because one side is facing the intake valve, the other is facing the exhaust valve.


One thing that you will find as helpful is indexing the plugs. All plugs should read equal and the defining line should be right down the middle of the plug.


I define that as, the tip of the plug needs to point directly at the intake valve.

In order to do that you need to use shims under the plugs.

The racers that I know say this is MANDATORY to get the engine to operate properly and state that they have dyno proof of 15 to 20 hp differences between indexed and non-indexed plugs.


IF you are running Webers, try going to .60F/.80-.85-.90idle holders. The .70f are too heavy.


Shims with a conical seat ???

These pictures were made after the engine had idled or at full load? If it was fully loaded, did you stop the engine immediately afterwards and finish freewheel?
Someone had conical shims. They aren't common. I think I got them from Summit Racing but I haven't messed with the iron heads in 25 years or so.

Did I do a coast down to read the plugs? No.

The plugs should be a dark brown, not black. The tips should be clean.

You need to lean the idle until it pops. The third transition hole is necessary for this to work.

With just two, the mains won't come in until 2,800 to 3,000 rpm. Those will lean out the running mixture.



The reason the idles were originally set up with .70 f mains is that the engine runs so long into the rpm scale before the mains come in.

You only need the heavy idle for that reason and it will pop at idle if too lean.

Since almost all US v8 engines used the 289 Cobra race specs to start with, little development was done with the idles and it was just accepted the engine would idle heavily.

.60 idles are all that you need volume wise and there is now a plethora of idle air holders to mess with. .70's are just from the past now.

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