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 I have freshly powder coated trim and a freshly painted body and certainly do not want to damage either in the installation process.  I also have new felt  and window channel to install.  

This would be much easier if I had taken things apart, but that was done by the repair shop so I have no previous experience to fall back on. 😕😕 

2511 still has the rivet holes for drip rail and B-piller pieces,  so their installation is self-explanatory. 

Would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone who has been down this road before.  Please share any pertinent tips regarding sequence of installation, resolving difficulties in re-snapping trim onto body, or anything worthy of sharing. 

Thanks ‼️

Larry

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Just a bit off "the how" by EXPERIENCE..I will think longer though, as I did it 2 years ago

1) key is to have the window rails put in and TESTED with a window glass in place incl. all the machanics as it pulls window in a "decent direction" besides the rails going it. The window glass might move outwards as going up. I had issues and still have as the window glass stickes out too much at the upper end..(this requires to my insight some metal work on the door upper inlet respective the out side metall trim)

2) the cat wiskers here you want to put fabric tape on the door rail BEFOR you put the fixtures for thewskers..and then snap the wiskers in. Avoids cracking the nice paint as much as possible

3) mirrors & outer trim, well it depends I have the "I think" Ford Mustang mirrors which are glued to the 3angle window. Check the trim and how it fits with the mirrors as aplies. BEFOR putting the tim finally

4) the trim, you need the correct rivetts, well in my case all is black i.e GTS, so did go for BLACK fals rivetts,.

5) I did gue the the rubber parts with TEMPERATURE STABLE glue. 

..still thinking of other issues I had.. window alignement was a big mess..and still is on passenger side..

hope I hit your questions..happy to help..

Mat

Just went through the same situation earlier this year. This was my procedure.

The first exercise is to lay out each outer and inner piece piece noting the "curled" edge and somewhat straight side of the cross section of the stainless.

I had my whiskers, and channels installed and windows in working order before installing the stainless, especially, since my "wing window was out and must be fully seated (forward) for everything to work properly and the stainless to mount properly. I left the inner door panels off.

OUTSIDE:

I started with the front wing forward piece. Next, the back side of the wing window - it will be under the top piece ever so slightly. Then, I went to the back of the door and snapped it on. Next was the top of the door where the top piece must abut the front wing piece and the rear piece. It may take the gentle taping of a rubber hammer to slide a piece in position. The final piece is at the bottom of the window and has "cut-outs" to cover the three vertical pieces. 

INSIDE:

The front wing, forward goes on first. Obviously, the very small screws will align where the front goes and where the top goes. The wing pieces fit slightly behind the door panels. The back piece has a small screw at bottom and partially behind door card. The back piece of the wing window snaps in last.

The stainless will snap on rather easily  if the inner channels are not bent.  

  

 

 

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