Hi and thanks for looking at my problem.
I pulled my Pantera in today. Drivers window was going up and down fantastically along with the passenger window. Then, the drivers window went down and I can't get it back up. Took the door apart and I can hear it clicking both up and down but no movement. Switch? Just asking before I do something really stupid. Also, the plastic manual knob won't budge it.
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By manual knob, do you mean the emergency crank?
Can you pull up on the glass as you raise it?
If it's clicking it at the motor it means it's getting voltage so likely not a switch. Sounds like something is loading the motor.
The original nylon gear has probably failed. Brass replacements are available or you can install a motor/mechanism from a later car. Takes a little modification.
Yeah the emergency crank. I thought it might be the nylon gear wore out.
So if the motor is getting voltage "clicking up and down" why won't it move? Most likely reason?
It doesn't necessarily strip the teeth, it splits the hub.
Look here:
So that my be keeping it from going up and down? If it is, how do I get the parts out when the window is down. From the other posts, the window needs to be up or can I unscrew the window and push it up, tape it and then take everything out?
Exactly. Dig into the window and take apart as much as you can to release the glass then pull the glass up. I use rubber door stoppers jammed between the glass and the door to hold the glass. And when you're done you might as well do the passenger side.
It isn't a matter of "if" the original gears will fail, it's a matter of "when". Time seems to be a bigger factor than use. BTW, the same gear is used to raise and lower the headlamps.
I guess it's rebuild time then.
So if the passenger side I cannot manually open, then it's most likely same thing is going to happen?
Yes.
As mentioned, this is an opportune time to upgrade to a different motor which 1) draws lower current to extend the life of the switch and 2) increases speed. I believe Pantera Place is one of several websites which discusses the details of this mod.
Well, I can't thank ya'll enough. I'll get on it. You guys have been awesome help.
So here's a question about it. If the regulator arm needs to be parallel to the ground to get it out, and the window is down, after unscrewing and removing the track, how do you get the arm up to parallel to remove thru the large opening?
I got it all apart and correctomundo. Broken gear.
Remember, to finish this job you need THREE brass gears: both doors and the same rig is used on the headlight raise/lower transmission up behind the radiator.
Thanks for reminding me.
We'll, I've fixed and reinstalled everything on the driver's door. The mechanism slides really nice up and down with no binding without the window attached. When I attached the window, it binds about half way up. When I slide the window alone, it seems to not slide real smooth and binds. Help!
From a previous discussion:
1) The curvature of the window frame by the door handle is not quite exactly like the curvature of the glass. The glass pushes hard on the outside of the curve at mid way when the glass is fully up. This is the area of resistance. Can't really do anything about that. Once the window gets down about 4", it really zips up or down with speed. It slows drastically at that same spot going up also.
2) The slider bar is not exactly parallel to the guides containing the weatherstrip in the front or rear & can't be adjusted enough.
3) The motor has less power as it gets hotter from going up & down, during testing.
My optimum adjustment:
1) Leave a little play on the 4 wheels that go up & down the slider bar.
2) 1 or 2 washers behind the slider bar at the top seem to angle the glass more in the direction of the guides containing the weatherstrip.
3) I just removed the bolt holding the buttom of the guide altogether and this let it sort of float and gave the window the best speed improvement. It can be removed or reinstalled without even taking the door panel off, so this can be a 2 minute test to see if it helps.
4) One of the 'S' brackets holding the catwhiskers on the bottom horizontal car door was rubbing on the glass, so it got removed and flattened some.
5) The contacts on the electric motor were cleaned and the connectors were tightened a little with some long nose pliers before puhing them back on.
I spray a dry silicon lubricant up and down the channel whiskers every couple of months. It is a very slippery lubricant, and it improves the up and down motion of the glass significantly. Try it, it may help a lot.
Chris, be VERY leery of the outside cat-whiskers especially on the driver's side. They are held on by tiny sheet metal screws that CAN back out and touch the glass both when up, down or moving them. This will create multiple chips that will ruin your windows. Ideally, remove all the screws & use some sort of glue.
