Where is the best place to pry on the grills to remove them without breaking them?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Doug,
I do not rely on just prying the grills from their outer edges.
Get some wire, thin rope, etc that you can thread under several of the grill slats, spreading out the load and minimizing any breakage. Keep your pulling force at the edges of the slats, not the center. Pulling on just one - not good.
Using the rope and side prying - putty knife - you should be able to slowly work the 8? prongs loose. Keep re-threading the wire/rope so it is close to each prong, and use an incremental approach, much like tightening head bolts, etc. Once each of the prongs is loose, the process gets pretty easy.
Be sure to cover the cowl paint with tape, thin wood, etc where you use the putty knife to avoid paint damage.
First time removal is, obviously, the most difficult.
This task is much like removal of the rear, gill windows. Seems more difficult beforehand, and falls into the "That wasn't too tough" category once completed.
I think you, YES, EVEN YOU, can pull this off.
Larry
I do not rely on just prying the grills from their outer edges.
Get some wire, thin rope, etc that you can thread under several of the grill slats, spreading out the load and minimizing any breakage. Keep your pulling force at the edges of the slats, not the center. Pulling on just one - not good.
Using the rope and side prying - putty knife - you should be able to slowly work the 8? prongs loose. Keep re-threading the wire/rope so it is close to each prong, and use an incremental approach, much like tightening head bolts, etc. Once each of the prongs is loose, the process gets pretty easy.
Be sure to cover the cowl paint with tape, thin wood, etc where you use the putty knife to avoid paint damage.
First time removal is, obviously, the most difficult.
This task is much like removal of the rear, gill windows. Seems more difficult beforehand, and falls into the "That wasn't too tough" category once completed.
I think you, YES, EVEN YOU, can pull this off.
Larry
Doug,
When I did mine I bent a small pocket screwdriver into a 90°L and used it to pry up sticking through the grill. This avoided prying on the exposed paint. There has been a post here about using rubber grommets rather than the plastic retainers when you put them back in. I wish I had that knowledge before I put mine back in.
Steve
When I did mine I bent a small pocket screwdriver into a 90°L and used it to pry up sticking through the grill. This avoided prying on the exposed paint. There has been a post here about using rubber grommets rather than the plastic retainers when you put them back in. I wish I had that knowledge before I put mine back in.
Steve
quote:Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
Doug,
I do not rely on just prying the grills from their outer edges.
Get some wire, thin rope, etc that you can thread under several of the grill slats, spreading out the load and minimizing any breakage. Keep your pulling force at the edges of the slats, not the center. Pulling on just one - not good.
Using the rope and side prying - putty knife - you should be able to slowly work the 8? prongs loose. Keep re-threading the wire/rope so it is close to each prong, and use an incremental approach, much like tightening head bolts, etc. Once each of the prongs is loose, the process gets pretty easy.
Be sure to cover the cowl paint with tape, thin wood, etc where you use the putty knife to avoid paint damage.
First time removal is, obviously, the most difficult.
This task is much like removal of the rear, gill windows. Seems more difficult beforehand, and falls into the "That wasn't too tough" category once completed.
I think you, YES, EVEN YOU, can pull this off.
Larry
Thank you for your confidence in me. I have them out now.
I used the paint can opening tools.
The idea of using wood to protect the paint didn't work out. I dropped the 2x4 and in broke the windshield.
I'm just going to trim that hole with a rotory tool and hook up a 4" drier duct to it. It will be like the race cars that direct cooler outside air at the driver.
WD40 actually is what did the trick. The pins slipped right out. I got it on the 2x4 though.
quote:WD40 actually is what did the trick. The pins slipped right out. I got it on the 2x4 though.
As that 2 x 4 is now contaminated with WD-40 I think you will need to call the EPA and learn how to properly dispose of it. Hazardous waste is not something to mess around with. Do not burn it in your fireplace as I fear inhaling the chemicals might affect your physical and mental health.
The problems just never end, do they?
Larry
This is a new administration. They are anti-EPA. It shouldn't be a problem if I hold on to it long enough for the EPA to be eliminated? Maybe by next year?
OK. Up to the next step.
How does the nut come off of the wiper pivot?
Either they are LH threads and I am turning them the wrong way or there is some other consideration?
The shop manual is of no help and I can't find a post on anyone ever doing this and writing about it?
So far all I know is that the nut is 19mm.
How does the nut come off of the wiper pivot?
Either they are LH threads and I am turning them the wrong way or there is some other consideration?
The shop manual is of no help and I can't find a post on anyone ever doing this and writing about it?
So far all I know is that the nut is 19mm.
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
OK. Up to the next step.
How does the nut come off of the wiper pivot?
Either they are LH threads and I am turning them the wrong way or there is some other consideration?
The shop manual is of no help and I can't find a post on anyone ever doing this and writing about it?
So far all I know is that the nut is 19mm.
Every one that I have removed has had right hand threads. Most of the time they are not in the best of shape.
Thanks for that information Ron.
I've had this car since 1985. Absolutely everything has been apart on it at least once EXCEPT for one thing, the wiper pivot assemblies.
I guess I am dealing with 45 years of corrosion on that spindle and nut?
Even 'rust buster' isn't doing it.
Looks like I have to dig out the 'ole nut splitter'?
What keeps the pivot assembly from rotating against the steel body? Just that nut? I would have expected to see a locating pin?
I have the exploded view of the assembly. I would comment that it isn't in enough detail, BUT if it is that simple, just the one nut holding the pivots together, then I am wrong in that I was just expecting more?
I've had this car since 1985. Absolutely everything has been apart on it at least once EXCEPT for one thing, the wiper pivot assemblies.
I guess I am dealing with 45 years of corrosion on that spindle and nut?
Even 'rust buster' isn't doing it.
Looks like I have to dig out the 'ole nut splitter'?
What keeps the pivot assembly from rotating against the steel body? Just that nut? I would have expected to see a locating pin?
I have the exploded view of the assembly. I would comment that it isn't in enough detail, BUT if it is that simple, just the one nut holding the pivots together, then I am wrong in that I was just expecting more?
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Thanks for that information Ron.
What keeps the pivot assembly from rotating against the steel body? Just that nut? I would have expected to see a locating pin?
No problem. The transmission is mostly kept from rotating by the steel cable guide tube that is captured by the top and bottom of the transmission body. If you were to remove the entire assy and reassemble it outside of the car,it is impossible to rotate the transmission without bending the tubes ( which is very hard to do with the cable running through it). The nut only keeps it from dropping down into the rain gutter.
Ron
That explains why I can't get the nut loose. I can't get enough torque on the nut without rotating the pivot body and yes, I can see the tubes resisting the twisting.
If the nut splitter doesn't work, this literally may be a job for the "Dremmel"?
Thanks for the help.
If the nut splitter doesn't work, this literally may be a job for the "Dremmel"?
Thanks for the help.
OK, the nuts are off. They were frozen on and needed to be ground off. No biggie at all.
Those are available.
Is there a place I can get the Lucas drive cable in bulk rather then just from Wilkinson?
Why does this cable extend about 5 inches past the last pivot?
How does the cable come out of the pivots? Does it have to be unthreaded completely from them?
I can't tell completely what is going on with the assembly because it is still in the rain gutter.
I don't want to break anything needlessly. I'm not familiar with these kinky Euro details. US cars don't drive their wipers this way.
Those are available.
Is there a place I can get the Lucas drive cable in bulk rather then just from Wilkinson?
Why does this cable extend about 5 inches past the last pivot?
How does the cable come out of the pivots? Does it have to be unthreaded completely from them?
I can't tell completely what is going on with the assembly because it is still in the rain gutter.
I don't want to break anything needlessly. I'm not familiar with these kinky Euro details. US cars don't drive their wipers this way.