Advise needed please, purchased Tim's oil filter adapter/WIX filter, having never removed an adapter from a Cleveland I'm desperate for info on the proper method, please advise, much appreciated. I have lots of tools but apparently not the right one.
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Who is Tim? 😐
Can you post a photo of what we are supposed to help you with?
Can you not just grab the old one with a pair of Vice grips, and unscrew it? I thought the new adapter just threaded into the existing hole., and had a larger bore, but the same threads. You probably don't really care about saving the old one.....
IIRC - The adapter is just a two sided threaded "bung" - one side for the threads in the block, and one side for the new, larger diameter filter?
As another suggestion - TMeyer is pretty responsive, and I am sure he would be happy to make sure you have no problems with your purchase....
If I'm not "getting the picture" - I agree with Larry - post up a picture so you can help us understand...
I welded a 3/4-16 nut onto the end of the old stem and just backed it out with a socket wrench. Vise grips should work as well if you can get enough of a bite and have room to turn it.
Thank you all for your replies and apologizes for not being more descriptive, my problem lies with removing the stock filter adapter, I made this crude (gizmo) yesterday but unless the stock adapter has left hand threads to enable me to back it out I'm pretty much stuck as the the stock adapter center has a completely round hole with no provisions for using any type of wrench to break it loose. I tried several times using my (gizmo) tool with a 1/2" drive ratchet with an 18" cheater bar with no luck, I was hoping for L/H threads but looking at Tim's adapter the threads appears to be R/H. I know Tim is very busy but if all fails I might email him to see if anyone else has ever had this problem. I have no room for vice grips unfortunately, again thank you everyone. Frank #2539
I had this problem some time ago on a Cleveland block I was stripping. Some filter adapters have a thin hex while others are round as you mentioned. Even lathing the socket flat to remove the chamfer didn't work- it was so tight my effort stripped the hex corners off. So I took a piece of square stock CRS, drilled a hole in it and threaded the hole 3/4-fine SAE to match the filter threads. I lightly screwed the CRS piece onto the oil filter fitting, added a 3/4-fine setscrew that I tightened REALLY tight against the fitting top with a cheater bar, then used a 24" Crescent wrench on my CRS piece. The block fitting gave up and unscrewed.
I think all Ford blocks have these fittings. They are torqued into smoking-hot engine blocks at the factory so when it cools they are very, very tight; half-hearted measures won't budge them. I used a big setscrew as a jam, 'cause they are gr-8 and unlikely to strip while being sufficiently tightened against the filter fitting. A gr-8 bolt probably would have worked just as well.
Once the fitting was out, I found a ledge of hard, gritty oil sludge built up around the filter adapter threads, so if you're reconditioning a block, its a good idea to remove the fitting to clean out ALL the sludge in the part. And if you intend to re- use the block & fitting, red Lock-tite is recommended. If it loosens while the engine is running you could lose the engine.
...I would have used a Plumbers' 'Pipe Wrench'. I have a smaller one that is only 10" Long, but the Jaws are 1 Inch Wide. The More You apply Torque, the Tighter the Serrated Jaws, Grip. Never Failed Yet! Ofcourse, this Destroys the Part being Removed. MJ