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I chose MOMO 1968 Racing Heritage wheel.  6 hole bolt circle seems like a momo standard (6 holes on 70mm bolt circle?).  I looked on Wilkinson's online catalog and didn't see anything.  I will give a call today.

Clipboard21

The 2-piece collapsible adapter is easy to find from a variety of vendors and I may  go that route.  Thought I would ask around first.

Clipboard22

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Last edited by jjones

When it comes to hub adapters, close won't cut it. It's correct or it's not. Spline count and pitch is only one part of the equation. You also need it to cancel your turn signals and be the correct distance to the steering column shroud. The correct Momo hub part #'s are 4908 and 4508; the difference being the horn button supplied with the hub adapter. 4908 is supplied with a DeTomaso horn button and 4508 is supplied with a Ford horn button. As both of these items are nearly impossible to find, your only option is a vendor. Wilkinson does carry a hub adapter for Momo steering wheels but it comes with a quick release mechanism and his own horn button. The unit that Bobby Byars (Precision Pro-formance) used to sell is probably available from other Pantera vendors. Try Dennis Quella and Larry Stock. You might want to try IPSCO too. This is the type of part that's right up their ally. Let us know what you find.

Last edited by davidnunn

Search for a 'hub Boss Adapter for Ford laser Bronco escort' at AliExpress. Perfect fit, I am using this hub together with a standard hub extension (easily available) because you need it longer.



36 splines and 16mm.



Quality is, hmm...not great, but had no issues so far.



Adapter for the following Brands and Cars should fit the Capri mk1 column:



Passt Für BRONCO / F100 F150 F200 F250 F350 1973 - 1982

Passt Für BRONCO / F100 F150 F200 F250 F350 1982-1991

Passt Für CAPRI MK1 1969 - 1974

Passt Für CAPRI SA30 1989-1994

Passt Für CORSAIR 1989-1992

Passt Für CORTINA MK1 - MK2 1965 - 1971

Passt Für CORTINA TC 1971 - 1974

Passt Für CORTINA TD TE (Nicht Ghia) 1974 - 1979

Passt Für KURIER 1983 - 1991

Passt Für ECONOVAN 1980 - 1983

Passt Für ECONOVAN 1983 - 1991

Passt Für ECONOVAN 1994-AUF

Passt Für ESCORT 1300 MK1 1970 - 1974

Passt Für ESCORT 1600, 2000 MK1 1970 - 1975

Passt Für ESCORT 1600, 2000 MK2 1975 - 1982

Passt Für FAIRLANE ZA - ZB 1966 - 1969

Passt Für FAIRLANE ZC - ZD - ZF & LTD 1972 - 1973

Passt Für FAIRLANE ZG - ZH - ZJ & LTD 1973 - 1982

Passt Für FAIRLANE ZK ZL & LTD 1982 - 1987

Passt Für FALCON XK XL 1961 - 1964

Passt Für FALCON XM XP 1965 - 1967

Passt Für FALCON XR XT 1966 - 1969

Passt Für FALCON XW 1969 -1970

Passt Für FALCON XY 1970 - 1972

Passt Für FALCON XA 1972 - 1973

Passt Für FALCON XB XC XD 1973 - 1982

Passt Für FALCON & FAIRMONT XE XF (NICHT Ghia) 1984 - 1988

Passt Für FAIRMONT GHIA XF 1984 - 1988

Passt Für FALCON XH UTE 1996-1999

Passt Für FALCON EF EL

Passt Für FALCON EA EB ED inc XR6 1988 - 1994

Passt Für FESTIVA

Passt Für LASER: ALLE MODELLE 1981 - 1994

Passt Für MAVERICK 1988-1996

Passt Für METEOR: ALLE MODELLE 1981-AUF

Should be easy for you US Guys to find a hub for Broncos and f150s....

Last edited by bluepant

Yes, the hub you used is 16 mm with 36 splines. It is often advertised with a part number of R-2. It is common for modern Mazda vehicles.

yes, that hub will slide onto the Pantera steering shaft.

but, that hub does not properly index onto the Pantera shaft taper.

I assume the taper is there for a purpose. I assume when the hub attachment nut is tightened, the intent is for the tapered portions to be forced together for additional friction, so the connection is not fully dependent on the strength of the splines.

here is how the stock OEM hub fits on the shaft.

F3703F6B-67F5-4297-BC79-A6FBFECFBD39

here is the same hub you used and how it fits onto the shaft.

7B0F4B87-0468-454F-A9B7-98BAB372DC1C

I have several of those hubs because the seller indicated they were correct for the early capri. The seller obviously was not concerned with the taper.

I do not think that hub should be used on a Pantera.

feel free to convince me that the mismatch is of no concern.

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511

Well, it would be great to have more options, but as the Momo Variant is unobtanium...

From my experience I can say that it works fine in my car. May I add, that in the first picture the hub is in full contact with the retaining  ring. This indicates that the taper might not be fully forced together with the hub as well. In my opinion the taper helps to center the hub to avoid possible play between the splines and the original steel hub, but not for additional forcefit.

Aftermarket Hubs are softer die-cast.

Reason for splines is to ensure formfit. If the splines do not engage...problem

Last edited by bluepant

The second picture IS the hub that you are using. 🤷‍♂️

The contact ring, as you call it, is not fixed and can slide up and down the shaft.

In this photo, the hub has been slid down the shaft as far as it will go. It stops before engaging ANY of the taper  

34020DB2-750C-43B7-922C-AE6C2669FD6C

The hub you are using has ZERO engagement with the shaft taper. Zero engagement.

Just because your hub works successfully does not mean it is correct.

again, I think that mismatch is concerning and I do not think that style hub should be used on a Pantera

remember, everything is always just fine ……..until it isn’t  ☹️

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511

OK, in regards to the first picture….

that first picture IS THE OEM HUB mounted on the Pantera shaft. It fits FULLY onto the taper as designed.

and once again, as I just posted,

The ring is NOT fixed to the shaft, it is free to slide on the shaft, and the ring has zero impact on how the OEM hub engages with the Pantera shaft taper.

this photo shows the OEM hub fully engaged onto the taper, note the ring position  

DDB133D2-D189-4E0F-AC3C-8D541E546D78

I imagine one could get a round chunk of metal, drill a large hole in the middle, and use a steel epoxy to mount it onto the Pantera steering shaft, drill and tap some holes and attach your steering wheel. Pretty sure that would work successfully, ………until it didn’t.

taking short cuts on the steering system does not seem to be advisable.

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511

Clearly I am learning a lot today.  Jerry at PIM quoted me $134.95 + s and I have decided to go with a known vendor.  If there is a problem, the vendor will work with me to resolve any issues.  He advised it could take a while to get...

I did get a couple of PM offers which I do appreciate the peer to peer reacchng out.  Helping to solve problems, share knowledge, and find unobtaniums is why I'm here.

-OP

At the risk of being Seen as a know-it-all. Have a Look at the Steering column of a Classic porsche 911, the zenit of German over engineering. Splines with no taper, and a c-clip as end Stop for the hub. 140 USD for a hub Adapter ist ridiculous.

I am too lazy to calculate transmittable torque for a 30x16x36T but it is a lot for mild steel. I am more concerend about the strength of the die-cast material of the hub.

@panterapatt posted:

Yes, Luisi part number 2703 is correct. It is in fact the one that I offered in a PM to the OP of this thread.

I purchased one of them sometime ago to confirm fitment. Available to anyone for $100, USA shipping included. Just trying to recoup my initial purchase price  

The only concern I have with 2703 is the notch to capture the cancel cam. It looks like it will work, but it does differ slightly from the OEM notch and might require a little modification  

it has the correct taper and FULLY indexes with the pantera shaft taper

94BDD47F-4BA7-4282-AB68-DB3FC4529CA2

I guess the OP would rather wait on a vendor that will eventually get around to obtaining one. 🤷‍♂️

Larry

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I have the Wilkinson version on my car. It looks like the picture above but is a fully cast piece and not collapsible like the above hub is. One thing I did not like about it was the clearance between the bottom of the hub and the shroud around the steering column. This seems to be common if you look at pictures of different cars. I fixed that by machining the bottom of the hub down, extending the taper the amount that was removed from the hub, and then milling the slot back in to cancel the turn signals.



Steve

Dougs Pantera Steering Wheel Adapter 1



This is a picture of mine installed. ^

I think this one is a sold piece > https://www.amazon.com/Crowder...Sparco/dp/B010C51O8O

Wilkinson's isn't solid? I got mine from him and it is. That's it^

https://panterapartsusa.myshop...=f13b2e21f&_ss=r



That is my adapter. It is solid aluminum and tapered. I don't know the purpose of the taper since it emphasizes the mismatch at the plastic ignition switch enclosure.

I dealt with that by using a leather upholstery edging material. That you can see in the picture. Without the taper, you wouldn't need it.



I am not sure what you two guys are debating about the seating depth of the adapter significance is. The Momo adapter is not made to fit like the original Capri steering wheel did.

I'm not sure what the significance of that stop and washer is on the Pantera shaft and if you ask me, it has nothing to do with the original Pantera application and is something left over from a previous application and not used at all in this instance.

The Momo adapter is installed one way, regardless of the taper built into the shaft. You tighten down the nut and that's it. The nut will only go so far and it is what holds the adapter in place on the splines against whatever amount of taper it will take. It will not seat fully against the entire taper.



The quick release hub from Wilkinson was mentioned above. I have one and I can tell you it is not the same unit currently being sold by Wilkinson. Mine was $500. It is machined out of solid stainless steel billet and will fit any Momo hub.

It is one of the best things I have done to the car. It makes working under the dash much easier and I have never regretted it.

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Last edited by panteradoug

Here is a question for someone in the know. First off, I just see the adapter being listed for a 70 to 77 Capri.

The term Mk 1, 2, or 3 is not refered too here. Elsewhere, like in the UK, they do.

So I agree that the Pantera steering column seems to derive from the Mk 1, basically because of the dates of manufacture, but with all of this discussion, what is a Mk 2 and Mk 3?

Larry mentioned that he thought the od of the splines on the steering wheel input changes in 1973 on the Capri. After maket listings for the adapter are not indicating that they agree?

So let's make this a simple question, what is a Mk 3? What is the od of the splines and spline pattern and what Capri does that apply to? Phew. Lots of writing for a somewhat simple question that apparently few have the answer to?

@davidnunn posted:

Doug,

MK1 is '70 to '72. That is what matches the Pantera's column. A '73 Capri (Mk2) is different. The correct shaft is 9/16" (14mm) - 36 (splines).

David. Not to be argumentative (just confused) There is a Mk1 in the UK in '68. I'm told by a "Brit" that there is an early, '68-70 Mk1 and a later Mk1, and the shafts are different.

He is saying that a Mk3 WILL fit a Mk1, but not a 68-70 Mk1, and that agrees with nothing being said here.

A US marketed Mk1 is 70-72 but the Pantera isn't built here, it is sourced and built in Europe and developed before a 71 model year.



So I'm still confused. I no doubt was born that way and have always been but that still doesn't solve anything.



What I am thinking is, if my UK source is correct, then what we have is the earliest version, which frankly since the thing is cut up and altered to work in a Pantera anyway, the only important data is that the input and outputs match?

I need to be careful with a logical answer though? It apparently isn't always the correct answer? ...now I just confused myself with that comment. Yikes. I have a headache...need to take a nap.



Larry. Stop it with this talk of Senior Moments please, because...ah, now I forgot what I wanted to say? See...

Last edited by panteradoug

I got a call from Kirk Evans decades ago concerning loose steering wheel adapters.  Two Pantera owners had contacted KIrk, having found that 5/8" splines (US measurement= 0.06250") are almost but not quite equivalent to 16mm (Euro measurement= 0. 6299") with the same 36-spline count. Things go together but the joint feels loose until you tighten the nut. I wrote up our discussion in the POCA Newsletter at the time. So it's in the Archives and may also be here  in PI's comm-archives- with which I'm not familiar.

The size difference is about 1/2 the depth of 36-spline engagement depth! So if a U.S made adapter or u-joint is on the low side of tolerance, or the Pantera steering shaft splines are a bit worn (or both), in an emergency at 150 mph or so, a driver can find the steering wheel is no longer tightly connected to the front tires. There should be ZERO slop in the fit of these steering parts! BTW, thats why I don't use the once-popular quick-disconnects- they always felt loose and worrisome to me.

I believe thats also the reason for the taper fit section on the hubs:  with it  you're not relying just on the splines for a tight, firm connection.  When I made my own steering wheel adapter for a larger OD MOMO wheel (to give my little Judy more wheel leverage), I cut apart an old stock steering wheel and used the steel splined center for my adapter to the shaft. No scary things have happened yet in over 30 years of fast mountain touring, open-track or autocrossing. YMMV.

USCDOC13

IMHO, your adapter is not “perfect”.

yes the adapter you are using has the correct diameter and spline count. It does not have the correct taper.

In fact your adapter does not engage ANY of the steering shaft taper.

07E95E6D-EA29-4B35-AF4A-EFAAB7B1D403

These hubs were initially sold as correct for different Mazda models. Some of the China-based vendors have discovered the diameter and spline count were found on other vehicle‘s and they are now marketing this splined hub for incorrect applications

The lack of any engagement with the shaft taper is a shortcoming only the China-made adapters consider unimportant.

EVERY reputable splined hub from Momo, Luisi, and other well-known brands WILL correctly engage the Pantera steering shaft taper, because that is how the OEM Ford/capri/Pantera steering wheel hubs are designed.

If you think engaging with the taper is unimportant for your $100,000 car, and the other drivers on the road near you, I would urge you to reconsider your choice.

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511
@bluepant posted:

This ist the steerinng column of a Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera.

This is a forum for Panteras.

How a steering wheel is attached on a Porsche, a Ford model T, a 1947 Studebaker, or 2023 Maserati is irrelevant to the conversation we are having.

If a splined hub does not fully duplicate the manner of attachment originally designed for the Capri/Pantera steering shaft, it is not correct.

Not. Correct.

End of discussion  

Larry

Momo makes over 200 different steering wheel hub adapters for a reason. Even manufacturers such as Porsche change the mounting and turn signal cancelling mechanisms from model to model and year to year. As Larry wrote, a hub is correct or it isn’t. A hub that’s close won’t work and is potentially a very dangerous compromise.

The taper is actually a better (and simpler) way to keep the hub tight to the shaft without the possibility of the torque applied to the steering wheel causing the hub to permit the wheel to rock.

I agree that you either have the correct hub adapter or you don't, but it looks like that particular Mazda hub adapter could have a taper cut into it without much effort provided you can maintain an acceptable amount of tooth engagement when doing so.

Personally I'd be curious about the Porsche shaft and suspect that there might in fact be a taper cut into the splines, i.e., the od of the front of the splines is smaller then the back od.

This would be particularly important depending on the metal alloy used for the hub adapter. If it is an aluminum casting, then potentially it will wear faster and a rocking will eventually occur without it.

A hub adapter isn't something that you really want to screw around with by yourself to make it fit. It's best to get the exact right part you need to begin with and as Larry points out, don't mess with the original engineering design. It was done for a reason and you shouldn't presume that it is for redundancy?

Personally I've screwed up plenty by mis-machining on the lathe trying to outsmart everything. I still get adventurous and if making mistakes makes one smarter, I must be a genius by now? Somehow that just hasn't worked out that way though?

Last edited by panteradoug
@panteradoug posted:

David. Not to be argumentative (just confused) There is a Mk1 in the UK in '68. I'm told by a "Brit" that there is an early, '68-70 Mk1 and a later Mk1, and the shafts are different.

He is saying that a Mk3 WILL fit a Mk1, but not a 68-70 Mk1, and that agrees with nothing being said here.

A US marketed Mk1 is 70-72 but the Pantera isn't built here, it is sourced and built in Europe and developed before a 71 model year.



What I am thinking is, if my UK source is correct, then what we have is the earliest version, which frankly since the thing is cut up and altered to work in a Pantera anyway, the only important data is that the input and outputs match?

I need to be careful with a logical answer though? It apparently isn't always the correct answer? ...now I just confused myself with that comment. Yikes. I have a headache...need to take a nap.



Yes, we Brits know the late Mk1 as the Mk1 facelift (1972-74 models with rectangular headlights) and the early (1969-72) as a pre-facelift. I think Ford only imported the German made pre-facelift version to the US. The Mk2 and Mk3 are hatchbacks and quite different. Take a look on eBay UK and you'll quickly see that the Mk3 steering column is significantly longer than the Mk1, they were not cut up for the Pantera, only the upper section used splined on both ends.

If you want a spare Mk1 column, Mike Mayberry has one on eBay currently.

David, not beeing argumentative but I beg to differ. My cheap non-pantera hub (without taper)  is cancelling the Turn Signal without any modifications perfectly, with the OEM Red plastic ring. I changed nothing, adjusted nothing, just replaced the OEM ford Steering wheel with the hub, an extension, and a Momo Steering wheel. No woble, no slack. Feels stiff, with the exception of the slight wiggle of the Pantera Steering column assembly which is due to its fragile mounting design to the Chassis.

OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..

we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.

it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.

It is still not correct.

Not. Correct.  

Larry

@panteradoug posted:

Capri Chinese steering wheel adapter taper 1This is the $21 adapter on ebay from China. It does show a taper.

Here is a clearer photo of the China/Mazda hub showing the “taper”

DEC6C3D1-3DFB-4E3D-BEC2-0A7F2255E868

3CB89C3A-343B-4706-BDF0-8DC7D190DE76

“You call that a taper? THIS is a taper”

2D46CE9A-E850-4451-9C0D-296907473D0D

This is the splined end of the steering shaft

B03D3F5F-F79A-46F3-B232-4716DFECADB7

Out of production Grant Capri/Pantera splined hub, 32 mm thick

3B4F7C2B-BAD4-4928-B479-8473E256D2E9

China/Mazda splined hub

4700AE93-E10A-4F27-B815-54126AAD4B86

AB6A57ED-0D9F-40D1-80EF-327DFDB87BEC

thickness of splined hub hole-

OEM-34mm…..Luisi-34mm…..Grant-32mm…..China/Mazda-18mm

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511

Just an update. I recieved an adapter from PI Motorsports https://pim.net/ today, 3 weeks after ordering. Price was $135 and I took a few pictures to share with you all. My Pantera is sleeping for the winter so it will be a while before I can get to fitment.

Upon visual inspection the splines look right and the taper is very obvious.  The momo with the adapter (left) is a little shorter than oem (right).  I think it will be fine.

Now - what about the DeTomaso logo for the center of my new Momo wheel? Any Momo owners want to share their experience here? Thanks, OP

IMG-1096IMG-1094IMG-1097IMG-1093

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That didn’t take too long, thanks for sharing.

yes, the splines and taper and signal cancel appear to be proper.

interesting that it only comes with one PCD pattern. Most hubs currently sold incorporate 70 mm and 74 mm PCD patterns

finding a De Tomaso horn center of any kind for any steering wheel is a difficult task. There are generic black centers if all else fails . Perhaps another owner has found a successful source that has evaded my searching?

did the hub come in a manufacturer’s box or have any indications of who/where it was made?

Larry

Last edited by lf-tp2511

Momo has their own center cap. The issue would be with getting the foil DT insert for it. I'm pretty sure that you can get just that from one of the vendors.

Ron McCall has his own GT40 type caps that will fit the wheel and Wilkinson's quick release device is well worth it. That is the black one with engraved DT that is shown in several of the wheels in the steering wheel thread.

It all depends on your own concept of how the wheel should look and function.

I'd personally recommend the quick release hub though and as far as Marlin's comment about the steering wheel "shouldn't project above the dash", you can install an adjustable height device to deal with that.

Howdy,

PI Motorsports appears to have a candidate De Tomaso steering wheel center on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/b/Steerin.../33704/bn_7064364870

I did not notice a diameter specified for the part but I sent the seller a related message this evening; I'll post if/when I receive an answer.

I too would like to replace my current [Momo GT] wheel with a Momo Race model and I would prefer to have the De Tomaso center.

--Brian

Bluepant

when you get a chance can you post a photo of what this looks like installed on your car?

just to clarify that I got this right. You used the flat sticker sold by P.I.M. and swapped it into a generic eBay Momo horn button.

The generic buttons usually come with a logo of some type, so you removed that logo and installed the P.I.M. emblem, right?

and the finished product still has a clear, domed, Crystal plastic shape, correct?

thanks,

Larry

Yes, I will do. Car is in storage due to Winter. Will Take some time.



I got the Metal Emblem together with my car. I bought a cheap Chinese Momo Horn button. I removed the Logo sticker. IT came Off easily. These Logos are plastic domed Stickers, and replaced it with the Metal DT Emblem. Th finished Product has no domed crystal.

I made a domed Center button for my Porsche. For that, I used an UV curing doming Resin. I do Not recommend IT to use this with prints as the Resin heats Up a lot while curing, and IT might blur the Print colors.

Last edited by bluepant

This is my DIY Porsche Horn Button. I took an OEM Momo horn button and replaced it with a self made, domed crystal. I used UV curing resin and a vintage Porsche crest. To do this you need to fabricate a flat round metal sheet with a rivet (for having an electrical connection to activate the horn when you push it) in order to replace the momo metal cone inside the horn button. IMG_20210322_1013175IMG_20210323_1146077

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@lf-tp2511 posted:

OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..

we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.

it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.

It is still not correct.

Not. Correct.  

Larry

I currently have my steering column disassembled for repair/updates.

How does the cancelling cam interlock with the notches on the steering wheel hub adapter? There is no direct connection. There should be an addition cog on the cam to engage the hub and rotate it but it doesn't have one. So what rotates the cam?

Also exactly what is the spring supposed to do?

I just don't understand the engineering concept here?



What I did when I originally installed my Momo wheel and adapter was to install a 1/32" roll pin in the base of the adapter and drilled a hole in the cam to directly drive the cam.

I don't even get why anyone bothered to notch anything in the steering wheel or hub. It just doesn't matter because it doesn't do anything.

Last edited by panteradoug
@panteradoug posted:

On the original wheel as you have pictured, one can clearly see how the directional cancel cam is driven by the notch in the steering wheel base.

The drive provided on the Momo adapter does not and makes no sense. There is no direct drive provision made for the cam canceler.

The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -

BC6F1184-0D53-41EE-A1BD-F894CF39FE18

it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?

I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷‍♂️

And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.

BE729ED2-2FDD-4105-A878-87B13907E980Larry

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@lf-tp2511 posted:

The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -

BC6F1184-0D53-41EE-A1BD-F894CF39FE18

it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?

I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷‍♂️

And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.

BE729ED2-2FDD-4105-A878-87B13907E980Larry

I never said that the Momo adapter did not have the notches in it. I said that they don't do anything (at least in my case) because they do not mate properly with the cancelling cam.

They don't mate AT ALL with that cam.



Here is the picture of my cam. According to the assembly diagram, the tab mounts up.

There is no tang on it to lock into the adapters notches. Is there more then one cancelling cam design? NO ONE, including Wilkinson seem to be able to answer that simple question.



Your picture shows a tang on the BOTTOM of the cam. My picture of the cam in the column shows that the illustration is correct, i.e., what is up and down on that cam. That is reinforced to me on how the directional switch needs that side tang to cancel, BUT WHERE IS THE INTERLOCK TO THE STEERING HUB?



Also in looking at the entire assembly, what is the additional tang on the bottom of the cancelling tab for? In my column, that would mate to nothing and mine doesn't have it?



What I did, and likely will continue to use, is a 1/32" roll pin I installed into the bottom of the Momo adapter that drives the cam canceller.



The other alien device that you are looking at is the commutator for the column mounted push button start switch.

Attachments

Images (8)
  • Wilkinson Pantera directional turn signal cancelling cam 1
  • Pantera Steering System Column 1
  • Pantera directional cancelling cam 1
  • Pantera directional cancelling cam 2
  • Pantera directional cancelling cam 3
  • Pantera directional cancelling cam 4
  • 20230218_083636
  • Pantera steering column directional cancelling cam 2
Last edited by panteradoug
@lf-tp2511 posted:

The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -

BC6F1184-0D53-41EE-A1BD-F894CF39FE18

it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?

I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷‍♂️

And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.

BE729ED2-2FDD-4105-A878-87B13907E980Larry

No spring. No room for it in the assembly. Just a factory solid spacer under the cam.

When installed, the smaller tang/tab in my photo is on the top, closest to the steering wheel.

it indexes with the notch in the stock hub, and will index with the notch on the Momo hub,

The larger tab is what touches/cancels the turn signal.

if your cancel cam only has the larger tab, that is the source of your issue.

the stock splined hub does not have a rod (like you added to your Momo), and yet it operates just fine, correct?

Larry

The hub does not function as intended. So it does not function properly.

There is not enough clearance to reverse the cam. It will be crushed.

The dark spot that you circled is from the crazy glue that I used to repair a crack in it. There is no evidence that the hub ever had a tab there.



Of course, I've only owned the car for 37 years so I can't speak necessarily as to how it was built originally.



Thanks for your input.

@lf-tp2511 posted:

So your cam cracked at the exact location where other cams have the small tab??

as if the tab was snapped off and created the crack in the process??

And again, how would the stock splined steering wheel hub manage to cancel without an added rod as you have done??

Larry

It wouldn't but in reversing the cam to the "stock orientation", the directional switch release button does not line up (I just tried that) with the release tab on the directional switch.

To realign that switch (somewhere in the 3/4 to 1" range) to make that work with the reversed cam would mean that the ignition switch would also need to move the equal amount to align with the enclosure case openings.

That in essence would move the steering wheel out from the dash the same amount. For me that is undesirable.



The way I am aligned now, the "missing" cog would need to be located on the same end of the cam as the release tang is. That obviously doesn't exist.

It can stay with the drive pin for that reason.



As far as the crack location, there is more then one crack in the cam. Not just in the "intended"  location to the missing cog.



What is the dimension of the original steering wheel depth, i.e., the corrugated steel tube? Is it the same length as the Momo adapter?

My car had a LeCarra wheel on when I bought it. That may explain the variation from the stock assembly? I don't remember how the LeCarra hub adapter mated up to the cam.

It could be that the LeCarra installer was looking to gain more arm space by moving the steering wheel about an inch closer to the dash? That would explain this situation.

Something definitely seems to be non-standard on your column.

This sketch displays the distance of the OEM splined hub and wheel combination, and how far the driver’s side of the wheel is from the tip of the steering shaft.

this may allow you to determine if your wheel position has been installed closer or further than the stock wheel

09C83ADA-7275-497F-9CA8-5F97088BBAA7

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Images (1)
  • 09C83ADA-7275-497F-9CA8-5F97088BBAA7

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