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Momo makes over 200 different steering wheel hub adapters for a reason. Even manufacturers such as Porsche change the mounting and turn signal cancelling mechanisms from model to model and year to year. As Larry wrote, a hub is correct or it isn’t. A hub that’s close won’t work and is potentially a very dangerous compromise.

The taper is actually a better (and simpler) way to keep the hub tight to the shaft without the possibility of the torque applied to the steering wheel causing the hub to permit the wheel to rock.

I agree that you either have the correct hub adapter or you don't, but it looks like that particular Mazda hub adapter could have a taper cut into it without much effort provided you can maintain an acceptable amount of tooth engagement when doing so.

Personally I'd be curious about the Porsche shaft and suspect that there might in fact be a taper cut into the splines, i.e., the od of the front of the splines is smaller then the back od.

This would be particularly important depending on the metal alloy used for the hub adapter. If it is an aluminum casting, then potentially it will wear faster and a rocking will eventually occur without it.

A hub adapter isn't something that you really want to screw around with by yourself to make it fit. It's best to get the exact right part you need to begin with and as Larry points out, don't mess with the original engineering design. It was done for a reason and you shouldn't presume that it is for redundancy?

Personally I've screwed up plenty by mis-machining on the lathe trying to outsmart everything. I still get adventurous and if making mistakes makes one smarter, I must be a genius by now? Somehow that just hasn't worked out that way though?

Last edited by panteradoug
@panteradoug posted:

David. Not to be argumentative (just confused) There is a Mk1 in the UK in '68. I'm told by a "Brit" that there is an early, '68-70 Mk1 and a later Mk1, and the shafts are different.

He is saying that a Mk3 WILL fit a Mk1, but not a 68-70 Mk1, and that agrees with nothing being said here.

A US marketed Mk1 is 70-72 but the Pantera isn't built here, it is sourced and built in Europe and developed before a 71 model year.

What I am thinking is, if my UK source is correct, then what we have is the earliest version, which frankly since the thing is cut up and altered to work in a Pantera anyway, the only important data is that the input and outputs match?

I need to be careful with a logical answer though? It apparently isn't always the correct answer? I just confused myself with that comment. Yikes. I have a headache...need to take a nap.

Yes, we Brits know the late Mk1 as the Mk1 facelift (1972-74 models with rectangular headlights) and the early (1969-72) as a pre-facelift. I think Ford only imported the German made pre-facelift version to the US. The Mk2 and Mk3 are hatchbacks and quite different. Take a look on eBay UK and you'll quickly see that the Mk3 steering column is significantly longer than the Mk1, they were not cut up for the Pantera, only the upper section used splined on both ends.

If you want a spare Mk1 column, Mike Mayberry has one on eBay currently.

David, not beeing argumentative but I beg to differ. My cheap non-pantera hub (without taper)  is cancelling the Turn Signal without any modifications perfectly, with the OEM Red plastic ring. I changed nothing, adjusted nothing, just replaced the OEM ford Steering wheel with the hub, an extension, and a Momo Steering wheel. No woble, no slack. Feels stiff, with the exception of the slight wiggle of the Pantera Steering column assembly which is due to its fragile mounting design to the Chassis.

OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..

we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.

it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.

It is still not correct.

Not. Correct.  


@panteradoug posted:

Capri Chinese steering wheel adapter taper 1This is the $21 adapter on ebay from China. It does show a taper.

Here is a clearer photo of the China/Mazda hub showing the “taper”



“You call that a taper? THIS is a taper”


This is the splined end of the steering shaft


Out of production Grant Capri/Pantera splined hub, 32 mm thick


China/Mazda splined hub



thickness of splined hub hole-




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Last edited by lf-tp2511

Just an update. I recieved an adapter from PI Motorsports today, 3 weeks after ordering. Price was $135 and I took a few pictures to share with you all. My Pantera is sleeping for the winter so it will be a while before I can get to fitment.

Upon visual inspection the splines look right and the taper is very obvious.  The momo with the adapter (left) is a little shorter than oem (right).  I think it will be fine.

Now - what about the DeTomaso logo for the center of my new Momo wheel? Any Momo owners want to share their experience here? Thanks, OP



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That didn’t take too long, thanks for sharing.

yes, the splines and taper and signal cancel appear to be proper.

interesting that it only comes with one PCD pattern. Most hubs currently sold incorporate 70 mm and 74 mm PCD patterns

finding a De Tomaso horn center of any kind for any steering wheel is a difficult task. There are generic black centers if all else fails . Perhaps another owner has found a successful source that has evaded my searching?

did the hub come in a manufacturer’s box or have any indications of who/where it was made?


Last edited by lf-tp2511

Momo has their own center cap. The issue would be with getting the foil DT insert for it. I'm pretty sure that you can get just that from one of the vendors.

Ron McCall has his own GT40 type caps that will fit the wheel and Wilkinson's quick release device is well worth it. That is the black one with engraved DT that is shown in several of the wheels in the steering wheel thread.

It all depends on your own concept of how the wheel should look and function.

I'd personally recommend the quick release hub though and as far as Marlin's comment about the steering wheel "shouldn't project above the dash", you can install an adjustable height device to deal with that.


PI Motorsports appears to have a candidate De Tomaso steering wheel center on ebay:

I did not notice a diameter specified for the part but I sent the seller a related message this evening; I'll post if/when I receive an answer.

I too would like to replace my current [Momo GT] wheel with a Momo Race model and I would prefer to have the De Tomaso center.



when you get a chance can you post a photo of what this looks like installed on your car?

just to clarify that I got this right. You used the flat sticker sold by P.I.M. and swapped it into a generic eBay Momo horn button.

The generic buttons usually come with a logo of some type, so you removed that logo and installed the P.I.M. emblem, right?

and the finished product still has a clear, domed, Crystal plastic shape, correct?



Yes, I will do. Car is in storage due to Winter. Will Take some time.

I got the Metal Emblem together with my car. I bought a cheap Chinese Momo Horn button. I removed the Logo sticker. IT came Off easily. These Logos are plastic domed Stickers, and replaced it with the Metal DT Emblem. Th finished Product has no domed crystal.

I made a domed Center button for my Porsche. For that, I used an UV curing doming Resin. I do Not recommend IT to use this with prints as the Resin heats Up a lot while curing, and IT might blur the Print colors.

Last edited by bluepant

This is my DIY Porsche Horn Button. I took an OEM Momo horn button and replaced it with a self made, domed crystal. I used UV curing resin and a vintage Porsche crest. To do this you need to fabricate a flat round metal sheet with a rivet (for having an electrical connection to activate the horn when you push it) in order to replace the momo metal cone inside the horn button. IMG_20210322_1013175IMG_20210323_1146077


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