Ok guys, thanks for your answers.
In fact we are on the same line, I was thinking the same remove the thin stuffs on the top and have a basic guide with a shoulder and the other side have a tapper which come gently to my valve diameter, I have EPN valves and the portion supposed to be outside of the guide has a smaller diameter for flow I guess. So in order to avoid sharp cross section changes I would see a tapper here. If I go in porting I will take all opportunities to do the best flow.
Panteradoug, thanks for your help I will email your guy see what he proposes to which price.
But I am pessimistic, first I don't find what I want and when I find it it is pretty expensive. So if the part is so simple I was wondering about asking my machinist to do them I would just need to buy a 11/32 reamer. I just need to confirm that I can go with bronze.
Another problem I found, if you look to the guides they are driven to far in the direction of the top, so when the valve is opened there's nearly no room for the valve seal which almost all cracked and felt as small pieces into the oil pan.
And I am nearly sure the drove the guides from the bottom to the top because it would have been to complicated to do from the top with the thin casting lips. And as they probably were not exactly aligned they've cracked everything, when they start driving it.
I have made few measurement this morning, the intake press fit length with a "flat roof" would remain as 21 mm on intake side and 27 mm on exhaust side. If I assume the 0.502 guide this gives a 1.75 ratio on intake (press fit length = 1.75 diameters) and around 2 for the exhaust.
Last thing, about the sealing, there is an option which is using some modern valve seals, as you advised to me, but, with old one and broken one my engine managed to get very worn guide with I guess plenty of lube, two questions : is there a break-in procedure with new valves + new guides, and isn't it better to stick with old style seals ?
Some more pictures :
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