Reply to "351C Oiling problems"

The restrictor plugs are really restricorts that insert into the oil passages going vertically from the main bearings to the cam bearing journals, to keep more oil down near the crank.THeres a single extra restrictor that inserts into the oil passage off the rear main and oils the left-side lifters. If you're using hydraulic lifters of any type, leavbe this plug out. Otherwise, oil will be restricyed enough that the 8 left-side lifters will rattle from starvation.

All the stuff you ordered is fine with the possible exception of the Hall pan- I'm unfamiliar with how its internal baffling is arranged. Inside the sump should be a 4-sided box with one-way doors going in, plus a windage tray, crank scrapers etc are normally in such pans. I suggest also checking the oil drain-backs in each end of the cylinder heads. They are both small, and one will be a dog-leg shape internally. They often plug up; a small diameter compression spring about 8" long can be used as a "Roto-Rooter' to positively clear both oil drains. Plugged drains will hold so much oil in the rocker covers that the oil pump starves & oil goies into the breathers & power brake reservoir. The 10-qt pan helps but clearing the drains also helps. An oil cooler will reduce oil temp when running over 140 mph for long periods of time. Otherwise, its un-needed- oil temps stay within 5 degrees F of water temps to about 140 mph in 5th gear. A water-to-oil type such as the boxlike Fluidyne or the tubular Aeroquip is the only one that works in our experience unless you cut big holes in the body to duct air to a huge air-to-oil cooler. And to use the water to oil coolers effectively, you need a better radiator than stock, such as the aluminum Fluidyne unit. The Accusump helps in extreme cornering situations at low speeds, and as a pre-luber before start-up, but I prefer the above fixes.