Reply to "408 Stroker Life Expectancy"

make a motor that will survive

> use good parts
> machine the block accurately (index the block)
> dynamically balance the reciprocating assembly
> assemble the parts to Ford or manufacturer clearance or tolerance specifications
> have the ignition & fuel system tuned professionally on a chassis dyno

If the motor has "issues" like your previous motor did, it will fail just like your previous motor.

A motor that is "blue printed" as I have decsribed is capable of sustaining far more abuse than a motor built less precisely. I can't over-emphasize the importance of the block's machine work, the reciprocating assembly's balance and the state of tune in making the motor durable.

An extreme example of the destructiveness of a poorly tuned motor is that DeTom's motor spit the crank out the bottom because his son had crossed a pair of plug wires.

To improve the Clevo's lubrication system you'll need to bush all sixteen lifter bores and set the clearance between lifter and bores at 0.0007" (that's not a misprint). The tight clearance prevents the loss of oil between the lifters and their bores, and forces the oil to flow where it is needed, to the main journals. Install the high pressure oil pump spring (to keep the oil pump's relief valve closed), a good oil pan, and the Fram HP1 oil filter to avoid bursting the oil filter with the higher pressures. Then run external oil drainback hoses between the valve covers and oil pan.

Purchase your crank kit from Mark McKeown, he's playing some tricks with the wrist pin placement in his pistons, one of the tricks that makes his motors durable, and a good reason to just bite the bullet and purchase his crate motor (he bushes the lifter bores as I described as normal practice).

> rock and roll