No stupid questions, searching for help and appreciate the guidance. Answers/thoughts below in bold:@panterapatt posted:So stupid questions here for you but: Define what you mean by "the car Overheats?" Is it puking fluid out the header tank? Or is overheating your response to the gauge saying 230?
It’s a great question. I replaced out the lines with gates green and marine grade clamps and went for a drive when i first got her a few weeks back. After the drive and idling on the driveway for a while I noticed it was over 245/250 and immediately shut her off. I heard a hissing noises and fluid spilling out which was coming out the coolant tank. My father shared with me after that that he never let it go over 230. So I know it will puke out around at least 245, thus me keeping it at 230 to prevent “overheating”.
1. You know your gauge to be accurate? You know 230 is really 230? Have you measured temps with an IR gun? Is the gauge and sender correct for each other?
I have not measured with an IR and the guage is new. Its a great idea though. Where would you recommend taking the measurements with my IR gun at? This said we do know that 240+ on the guage causes it to boil over
2. Do you see the car warm up in temperature and see the gauge drop when the thermostat opens at the design temp, then gradually warm back up again and repeat until it gets pretty warm? What thermostat is in the motor? Are you sure?
i do, only a slight bit though. right around 185. I only see it really adjust down once before she continues a slow steady climb. The thermostat is a stant 180 degree part number 13468 . I am certain as my dad bought her new and kept all records.
3. You have enough cooling fan capacity blowing over the rad and they are blowing the correct direction? Clearly if the car runs at some temp on the freeway (what temp is that? when you are driving along at 60 mph?
then it would suggest your problem is not enough fan capacity at idle or your fans are not wired correctly nor getting enough voltage to spin then fast enough when idling.
correct. A massive amount of hot air is pulled from behind the rad. I could not imagine them pulling much more air!
On the freeway she runs a steady 175/180 at 60.
4. If you don't shut it off, how high does it get? Let it run and see if the radiator cap discharges. Does it? It has been said if your cap is correct (16 lb cap) and it isn't discharging, then the car is not over heating. Will it puke coolant if left idling? try it and see.
Good question and I do not know where she would peak. When she overheated and purged that first time i then bought the pressure tester and did the raising of the rear end trick to get air out. Air did come out. I have not gone above 230 as I do not want to damage the engine.
She did puke over idling following that first drive (showing 245/250).
Before buying pulleys and attempting to solve a problem, you need to figure out what the problem is.
Agreed. Love the questions to help me ID what the problem may in fact be. I have read over many forum posts prior to posting and still looking for the problem I am solving.
Is it a gauge that you think implies overheating
Dont believe show. Read 245/250 and puked coolant.
Fans under capacity
dont believe so, moves massive amounts of air, that said i have not (do not know how to) tested.
Air in the system
Dont think so . Many drives. petcock on rad opened, followed by swirl tank and (many times over) the coolant pressure tester to help purge air. Nothing more coming out….
???