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Reply to "Air bleed holes in heads"

quote:
where are you plumbing those air bleeds to?

My air bleeds would have petcocks only for initial bleeding after refilling. I have not seen a problem, thus I see no need for constant (plumbed with hoses) air bleeding from the heads. If periodic bleeding from those petcocks keeps showing trapped air, obviously my thinking will need some re-evaluating. 2511 is fitted with the air bleed off the top of the radiator back to the overflow tank. Many have said this does not work. Work or not, air isn't a problem in 2511, and my system has, up until recently, worked in an exemplary manner.
quote:
air will form

George, I know you have given the whole cooling system issue more thought than I have, but I don't buy into the idea that air magically forms in a system that has been properly purged of air. (I am open to reading material that will change that feeling; please provide a link if available). While there may well be minor pressure drop areas in the system, I can see no manner in which air will magically form due to such a drop.
quote:
for sure its the BARS STOP LEAK

Ron, I totally agree with you.

Guys, please bear in mind 2511 used to run so damn cool I often wished for more temp during the cool winter month drives. It would idle at 198 on a 100 degree day. Quella wants to sell me a new double pass (and all the new hoses, etc for installing that different style) and new sucker fans (the Meriah fans work just fine, thank you). Following all the JT and George advice would incur running new air bleed hoses, remote stats and rerouting of coolant flow.

I have the Tefba coolant filter at work trapping any crap flowing in the system. It gathered some fine particles and some black silicone pieces during the Monterey trip.

I intend to add some cooling system flush solution and see what that breaks loose for the Tefba to collect.

Once I am satisfied I have purged the cooling system of potential crap that will clog-up the new radiator, the R&R will occur.

I'll check the Gates green stripe and replace if needed (probably not), fill with all new coolant, check new system for any electrolysis issues (install zinc anode if needed) and bleed as needed.

Thanks for all the thought and advice, guys, but I am not looking to reinvent the wheel here - my initial wheel worked just fine. A return to the days of yesterday, with a new triple-pass Ron Davis radiator, should do just that.

Larry
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