Reply to "Axle ID"

Solid rear axles are almost always made of 4130 billet or in the case of recent 'factory' axles- Euro equivalent EV-30 forged steel. They are both much stronger than OEM axles for '71-77 cars in the flange area, and are a tougher grade of steel. The shaft diameter is 1.5750" and yes- the last decimal matters. They are set for a 0.0005-0.0010" interference fit on std ball bearings with a bore of 1.5746-1.4748"; a hydraulic press and anti-sieze should be used when reassembling. Check the front bearing plate for distortion- heavy pressing will distort it into a cone, which then affects tightness all the way thru the assembly. If distorted, pound flat or replace. There are three different nuts: a crown shape locking type, a round nut and a round nut split 1/3 of the way around. The first two are reuseable as long as not mauled; the last distorts under torque and causes lots of drag on the threads if re-used. The drag can lower actual torque to the point that the assembly will actually be loose at 'factory' tightness. Use AT LEAST 400 ft-lbs of torque with oil on the threads. Please do not use Lock-tite; the next guy to remove it will have to wreck the nut!