quote:Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:quote:Alternating between the two makes bleeding your brakes a snap. You know you've finished flushing/bleeding the line when the fluid color runs consistent.
Garth shared this with me many years ago and it is a great tip.
For the frosting on the cake to make brake fluid changing much easier, by your self a Motive Products hand pump pressure bleeder tank. Even with the adapters you may need it's going to be less than $100.
One man brake, and clutch, bleeding in well under one half an hour from start to finish.
Larry
That Motive Products pump looks good, but I already have a Mightyvac pump which works good enough too, although the container seems smaller on the Mightyvac: https://www.lbusupport.com/asp...ges/MV6820action.htm
I went and bought some Valvoline dot 3/4, so I plan on using that. Will mix a little of that in a jar with the current fluid just to be sure if it mixes or not. If the two fluids don't mix in a jar, then I presume the current fluid has silicone base fluid in there. But since some say silicone is purple, I am pretty sure I have the non-silicone in all my cars anyway. With my Group 4, it looks like easy peasy, as I can access each of the bleed screws without removing the wheels, but it doesn't seem that lucky with the red 5S and black 5S. In the black 5S the rear wheels need to come off and the red 5S the front wheels need to come off. I presume I siphon off as much as I can with the wife's turkey baster, add some new fluid, and then bleed at each wheel to flush out each caliper one by one. Once I get the new fluid flowing by bleeding from one of the calipers, I presume I just go on to bleeding the other 3 wheels and keep adding some new fluid along the way as it draws it through. If I do it right, I would think no air would get in the system and the pedal would remain strong when all done. All the time protecting the paint real good for any mishaps, ha ha.