When I mentioned dropping a weight to 10-40 because of the finer mesh screen, people commented on the fact that the engine may have been built to run on 20-50 (bearing clearances and such) and so I just decided to run what Roger ran, weight-wise.
I got the Joe Gibbs Hotrod 15-50, so it should be a little easier on things on cold starts.
My reluctance to run synthetic is, every time I had a leak-free vehicle, when I switched to synthetic, I miraculously sprung leaks that just didn't exist before.
I know the Joe Gibbs oil is good, it was recommended by a couple top engine builders I talked to, but I may try synthetic sometime in the future.
quote:Originally posted by bdud:
Mike do you know what camshaft you are running?
Flat tappet or roller?
You said you liked Joe Gibbs or Driven motor oil, but I do not understand your reluctance to use synthetic.
The Driven website has lots of information about oil, viscosity, ZDDP etc. For example this page..
http://www.drivenracingoil.com...er/guides/viscosity/
"Choosing a motor oil with a higher base oil viscosity index provides the benefit of improved flow when it is cold while maintaining oil film thickness at high temperatures. Conventional mineral base oils have a viscosity index in the range of 100, while synthetic base oils typically have a viscosity index in the range of 150."
"If you are running a conventional 20W-50, just by changing to an mPAO based 10W-40, you can reduce start-up wear without sacrificing high temperature durability or oil pressure."
Give Driven a call and maybe call Royal Purple and a few others. They will be able to inform you how oil has improved or changed.