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Reply to "Has anyone tried machining the rear mounting face of the front upper ball joints to increase caster? ?"

Not sure on brands. At one time, all the vendors sold offset bushings; it may mean that you will have to contact your favorite parts-seller and ask. The difference in bushings is simply the thickness of the flange machined into one end; a thick flange means no offset and a thin one means some amount of camber offset relative to 'stock'. There's normally no big price change for camber increases.

And of course there's your main problem: getting the stock rubber & their steel sleeves out of the a-arm loops without damaging the arms. To avoid the problem,. some poly bushings are/were made to fit inside the hard-to-remove steel sleeves of stock bushings.

Note that the stock a-arms are only mild steel and can safely be weld-repaired by a decent welder with oxyacetylene and a file, and anyone with a small lathe could make his/her own custom a-arm bushings, with the help of TAP Plastics. Polyurethane rod-stock is available in all kinds of firmness (durometer).

Bump-steer results from the steering rods NOT being perfectly horizontal. So you can reposition the entire steering rack, or just the tie-rod ends (with heim-joints), to level the rods. That of course means that every car will be a bit different; the stock '73-up rack spacers are an average correction but bump steer on your particular car may be correctable with more.... or less spacer thickness. Wheel & tire size may have an influence too.

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