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Reply to "Changing Expansion Valve & Cracked the Evaporator Tube!"

I have to agree with Larry. You need to remove the dash board and remove the entire blower/heater/evaporator as an assembly.

Put it on the bench. Then you can work on it.

DEPENDING on the nature of the crack, it may not be able to hold the solder in the long run.

The tubing there, although it is yellow metal, i.e., brass or copper, is VERY thin. Much thinner than you would find in standard copper plumbing fittings.

The significance to that is that is a copper/brass based heating system is rarely going to see more that 30 psi. 12-15 psi is what the pressure regulator is set on in a heat/boiler/furnace.

An a/c system is going to show something like 320 (it's ok if you a/c guys correct me on this) with a 134a system.

There is a cross over where you need to go to brazing rather that soldering because of the pressure. For A/C you may be over the limit with solder.

I know ACCobra can answer that if he reads this and wants to get involved? If he says go with solder, then you are ok?

The other thing is you could TRY to do this in the car if you don't mind setting the car on fire but even I'm not that fool hearty to try?

Oh, and me, the numb-nuts twisted that tube to the fitting too. It's still holding...SO FAR, but you never know when the "badda-boom" will come..."big badda boom".

Bosswrench has got a lot of experience I think with this system in the car. Experience counts big here on this.

It MIGHT be better, aka better to replace the unit now? Dunno? Big Grin
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