Reply to "Changing rear wheel bearing"

First, you need the special axle nut socket and a long reaction bar to bolt onto the stub axle, and a wrench capable of at least 300 ft-lbs with you pulling on it, just to untighten the nut. Pray the previous owner didn't Lock-tite the nut! You'll have to release the upper tapered ball joint, and remove the lower pivot shaft from the bottom. If there is any corrosion inside the lower pivot area, the shaft WILL not come out, so I'd try this first. To disassemble if its frozen, you'll have to cut the lower shaft with an abrasive parting wheel or hacksaw, in two places, to remove the lower part of the carrier. This happens often enough that Hall Pantera offers a complete repair kit for the cut up parts...You also need a hydraulic press of at least 10 ton capacity, and a receiver that supports the small bevelled outside edge of the brake rotor rather than trying to use the rotor surface to take the press force. It is possible to break a rotor in half without the proper support. Finally, you need enough strength left to remove the whole 60+ lb rear upright assembly and drag it to your workbench. R & R will require new inner & outer bearings, plus a probable new stub axle or facilities to weld & remachine your old axle. Figure on blowing a whole weekend on this if you've never seen it done before.