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Reply to "Clutch adjustment?"

quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Depends on who actually does the work. If you order the parts after pulling your ZF and do a tear-down to determine what wore out- the synchro assembly, the gear cone which requires full replacement of that gear and maybe the mating gear as well, or all of the above, and your assessment is correct & you reassemble it yourself correctly, is one price.

Or crate the 155-lb gearbox as befits a $6000 assembly and ship it to an overhaul facility, synchro R&R done this way can run several thousands of dollars and several months down-time.

Also realize that all new ZF parts including gaskets only come from RBT Transmissions and everyone pays full retail for them. Overhauls therefore all have the same parts costs so any variation comes from cheaper labor rates or cannibalized used parts recycled into your gearbox. Nothing wrong with that except used parts obviously won't last as long as new ones.... Some gasket dimensions are critical, too.

Last bill I saw (a dozen years ago) including shipping to RBT, tear-down, inspection and reassembly with a few new gaskets and only an inexpensive thrust washer replaced- no synchro required due to a mis-diagnosed noise- then return shipping, was for $1100. Took a month.


What I was alluding too is simply it is better to put the correct clutch in the car now rather then have to rebuild the ZF soon after putting in the wrong one.

It seems to me to be a simple equation.

This just seems to me to be one of those areas in the car where some go to "Bonzo the Chevy clutch guy because 'obviously' the original engineering was wrong because the Italians wouldn't stop with drinking Bolla and spilling it all over the blue prints?"

That simply isn't true. It is well engineered for 1970 limitations. It needed more development to improve it.

Conspiracy theories have their place, but not here with this car.


This pic of a Turbo shows how the mats should be cut to keep them away from the pedals. There is no possibility of the pedals bottoming out on the floor mat here.

If you did the pedal box modification of moving the mounting plate forward, then the pedals wind up closer to the floor at full travel than stock.

Check your mats.

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Last edited by panteradoug
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