Reply to "clutch adjustment"

I'll add my two cents. I was having a problem with not enough disengangement, grinding going into reverse and trouble going into first, etc. All this occured when everything was warm. I monkeyed with the slave, bled it, adjusted it, checked free play, etc. Finally, I got fed up with no progress and decided to adjust the eye bolt out far enough that I was sure to get plenty of disengagement. It worked. I now get plenty of disengagement and it still hooks up fine. I am sure I will get flamed for this, but everyone on this forum seems to worry more about "free play" than disengagement. We all seem to be grinding reverse and not shifting correctly in an effort to save the throw-out bearing. I say, go in the opposite direction. Pull the rod out of the slave and give yourself more marging on the disengagement side. The stock rod can be adjusted to give you more than enough disengagement. Just play with it until everything works correctly.

Oh, and the plastic hose comes in handy when bleeding the system. It allows you to see when there are no more air bubbles. Plastics are typically a no no in hydraulics, but in this case there should be no problem. Unlike a braking system, there is no progressively higher pressure in a hydraulic clutch. Once it is to the floor, it won't go any further or generate anymore pressure. The pressure in the system is the minimum amount it takes to disengage the clutch. All the pressure the system will ever see is due to the force generated by the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers. Think about it.