Reply to "Clutch Master Replacement"

Speedway Motors in NE sells a bleeder repair kit consisting of a pipe-threaded bushing threaded internally for a std bleeder. You bore out the broken end however you can, drill & tap the hole for the new thread and you're back in business- maybe.
But experience has shown that the master cylinder and slave often wear out as a set; changing only one usually results in going back in there within a year to do the other half. Problem is, both stock cylinders were soft iron and owners simply won't change fluid yearly. So water accumulates in the fluid and rusts the bores, which tears the seals. Honing the rust out makes the bores too big to function leak-free with the adapted repair "kits"- there are no true rebuild kits for either part.
Bottom line- you're better off replacing rather than rebuilding unless you really know what you're doing. I always recommend using a stainless steel long-throw slave cylinder with some type of anodized aluminum master, both available from Pantera vendors. Both are much more corrosion resistant than stock, and the long-throw slave will give more clutch disengagement, preserving what's left of your ZF gear synchronizers.